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Light bulb master copy for mould
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<blockquote data-quote="PeterT" data-source="post: 1427" data-attributes="member: 22"><p>I'm familiar silicon and urethane soft molding materials. Both have their pros & cons (and cost) depending on what you are trying to accomplish. SmoothOn is a good name, both for mold making & casting consumables. Here is a link to (Canadian) supplier of similar products I found & used a few times.</p><p><a href="http://www.sculpturesupply.com/index.php" target="_blank">http://www.sculpturesupply.com/index.php</a></p><p></p><p>I think SmoothOn has some local distributers but they may vary in kit sizes & prices. Also check out some of the clear casting resins offered by Sculpture Supply. I suspect you might find some of the urethanes may offer advantages over epoxy when it comes to clear. You need a very thin viscosity to mitigate entrained bubbles without some degassing equipment. Epoxy doesn't lend itself as that way, at least not off the shelf structural resins. ps - Im pretty sure compatible tints for the clear are available for more amber, antique look.</p><p></p><p>By your mold description, I assume you are liquid casting a around the bulb shape, it cures as a semi flexible block, then you slit down one side, remove the male profile shape to mitigate indexing 2 matching female mold halves yes? That's petty much what I was suggesting, but again, there is nothing in this method that would preclude you from using an actual light bulb as the master plug. It should release just fine with appropriate release agent & material selection. Or at least no different than a machined replica. An Id be surprised if you couldn't use the bulb many times over for replica female molds.</p><p></p><p>Re your hook issue, here is a idea sketch. Assume the slit mold is cast to include the bulb threads as recommended. Pour the clear urethane resin up to the thread line. Bulb down so any entrained bubbles flow to base neck.. Allow to cure. Now pour silver/tinted (opaque) urethane to the end of section mimicking the threads but with your anchor bolt imbedded so its simultaneously cast in place. The weakest point of cured composite will be the interface line, but its probably equivalent to an epoxy glue joint. There is probably a way to integrate the glow wire & assembly in the clear to, ut I'm not sure if you are harvesting these or what.</p><p></p><p>ps - is there a compelling reason preventing the drilling a 'feed' hole into an actual bulb base with a carbide bit or something & just resin filling the bulb? (Think de-yolking festive Ukrainian Easter egg shells). This preserves the glow wire innards, uses the same resin & already has a perfect external finish. Once resin is cured, you have a solid resin mass to drill out the end & glue in anchor separate? If you could accomplish it this way, you basically sacrifice a 99 cent consumable bulb & no finishing.</p><p></p><p>Interesting project, good luck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="PeterT, post: 1427, member: 22"] I'm familiar silicon and urethane soft molding materials. Both have their pros & cons (and cost) depending on what you are trying to accomplish. SmoothOn is a good name, both for mold making & casting consumables. Here is a link to (Canadian) supplier of similar products I found & used a few times. [URL]http://www.sculpturesupply.com/index.php[/URL] I think SmoothOn has some local distributers but they may vary in kit sizes & prices. Also check out some of the clear casting resins offered by Sculpture Supply. I suspect you might find some of the urethanes may offer advantages over epoxy when it comes to clear. You need a very thin viscosity to mitigate entrained bubbles without some degassing equipment. Epoxy doesn't lend itself as that way, at least not off the shelf structural resins. ps - Im pretty sure compatible tints for the clear are available for more amber, antique look. By your mold description, I assume you are liquid casting a around the bulb shape, it cures as a semi flexible block, then you slit down one side, remove the male profile shape to mitigate indexing 2 matching female mold halves yes? That's petty much what I was suggesting, but again, there is nothing in this method that would preclude you from using an actual light bulb as the master plug. It should release just fine with appropriate release agent & material selection. Or at least no different than a machined replica. An Id be surprised if you couldn't use the bulb many times over for replica female molds. Re your hook issue, here is a idea sketch. Assume the slit mold is cast to include the bulb threads as recommended. Pour the clear urethane resin up to the thread line. Bulb down so any entrained bubbles flow to base neck.. Allow to cure. Now pour silver/tinted (opaque) urethane to the end of section mimicking the threads but with your anchor bolt imbedded so its simultaneously cast in place. The weakest point of cured composite will be the interface line, but its probably equivalent to an epoxy glue joint. There is probably a way to integrate the glow wire & assembly in the clear to, ut I'm not sure if you are harvesting these or what. ps - is there a compelling reason preventing the drilling a 'feed' hole into an actual bulb base with a carbide bit or something & just resin filling the bulb? (Think de-yolking festive Ukrainian Easter egg shells). This preserves the glow wire innards, uses the same resin & already has a perfect external finish. Once resin is cured, you have a solid resin mass to drill out the end & glue in anchor separate? If you could accomplish it this way, you basically sacrifice a 99 cent consumable bulb & no finishing. Interesting project, good luck. [/QUOTE]
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