LED replacement bulbs

[Chicken lights]

I’m on the hunt for a couple LED light bulbs to replace this one and it’s twin.

Part number GE 10143, about 18” long. The numbers on the bulb are F15T8-CW

I think, if I have this figured out, GE 10143 is the bulb number. F15 is 15 watts an hour.
T8 is the pin style/size
CW is Cool White

https://www.amazon.ca/Fulight®-Rota...s=f15t8+led+replacement&qid=1571968495&sr=8-3

So I’m wondering if that’s the LED equivalent on amazon? It looks close

 

[Chicken lights]

From the same amazon link-

How would I know if I have 12V DC current lightbulbs?

The ones on amazon are clearly marked 85-265VAC, then down below 110-120V AC

Do they even make a 12V DC flouresceny bulb? They’re in the sleeper of the truck

 

[Hruul]

I would guess that the 6000K is likely a lot more "blue" than your cool white. Cool white is normally around 4100K if i recall correctly. 6000K is ok if your not worried about the color shift. Stuff that is blue will be ok, but stuff that is towards the red color will likely be more black or colored differently under the 6000K from the 4100K. It is more costly to get LED lamps to the "warmer" end of the spectrum since they usually use a blue LED and then add phosphor to get the color towards red.

As to the DC portion I am not sure. AC fluorescent lamps have a ballast that steps the voltage up to start the lamp. I would assume the ones in your truck would be the same, however i do not have clue what voltage they would be outputting to the lamp.

 

[Johnwa]

You could always go with something like this
https://www.amazon.ca/Susay-Waterpr...id=1573235023&sprefix=Led+str,aps,227&sr=8-31

the back is sticky tape so they can be stuck on the wall.

 

[Chicken lights]

I would guess that the 6000K is likely a lot more "blue" than your cool white. Cool white is normally around 4100K if i recall correctly. 6000K is ok if your not worried about the color shift. Stuff that is blue will be ok, but stuff that is towards the red color will likely be more black or colored differently under the 6000K from the 4100K. It is more costly to get LED lamps to the "warmer" end of the spectrum since they usually use a blue LED and then add phosphor to get the color towards red.

As to the DC portion I am not sure. AC fluorescent lamps have a ballast that steps the voltage up to start the lamp. I would assume the ones in your truck would be the same, however i do not have clue what voltage they would be outputting to the lamp.

I needed new ones anyway, haven’t looked into the LED ones again since

Lots of good info, thanks!!

I was at a Canadian Tire and grabbed a couple regular bulbs and they are working fine. So somehow regular 110V AC bulbs work off a 12V DC curcuit

 

[YYCHM]

I needed new ones anyway, haven’t looked into the LED ones again since

Lots of good info, thanks!!

I was at a Canadian Tire and grabbed a couple regular bulbs and they are working fine. So somehow regular 110V AC bulbs work off a 12V DC curcuit

You probably have a 12VDC to 110VAC inverter supplying the sleeper. Do you have 110VAC plugs in there to?

 

[Chicken lights]

You probably had a 12VDC to 110VAC invertor supplying the sleeper. Do you have 110VAC plugs in there to?

Nope.

I added a power inverter when I got the truck, it’s mounted on a cabinet and only has a couple plugs on it.

The light is independent from the inverter, it’s factory wired

 

[YYCHM]

The light is independent from the inverter, it’s factory wired

That doesn't mean an inverter isn't involved for running the light. Was your truck supplied with a wiring schematic?

 

[Chicken lights]

That doesn't mean an inverter isn't involved for running the light. Was your truck supplied with a wiring schematic?

It didn’t come with one, but I did have one printed off and put in a binder. It wouldn’t have to be a large inverter, not for one light, I wouldn’t think

 

[YYCHM]

I suppose a multimeter would solve this mystery. Measure what's being supplied to the bulbs.