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Lathe setup and Projects to come.

Redneck7

Member
Well I haven't posted in a while. I got the lathe swapped over today to a better bench that's more stable. It's rated for 3k pounds and my manual says my lathe is 1074 pounds. If I notice the wood top sagging, I'll install some runners along the 3 bolts in some stout angle iron.

I got my QCTP installed and it should do just fine for my purposes until I get more serious. It's an accusize from Amazon, Wedge style and I have more than enough tool holders now.

Tomorrow is gonna be the day that I get to make some stuff. Couple small pins for my friends rifle. Starting my outboard spider as well. Then when I get a chance, install plastic inserts on my set screws.
 

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Nice. In in ideal world it would be better to have cross members oriented to the mounting pattern & integrated to the peripheral frame. Then the tabletop becomes just a secondary surface as opposed to carrying the structural load. Alternately some people beef up the thickness by laminating more wood if its a no-weld type deal. Do the feet have some form of adjustment where you can jack them up & down a bit? That will inevitably be necessary.
 

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Looks good. I have that same Husky work bench with 2 Dillon presses on it. I ran a couple of large screws thru the back support into wall studs for a little more rigidity. Rock solid.
 
The feet are adjustable. I was going to make a new bench yesterday with some scrap steel and figured this would just be easier. The frame of the bench is pretty light but wouldn't be heard to do what you're suggesting in the picture.

I'll see how she spins today, mounting to the wall wouldn't be a bad idea either. Thanks guys.
 
Bit of a tangent but this came up in another discussion where someone was using plywood in a loading situation. Something to the effect: 0.75" plywood sag = 0.5" under the weight, glue/nail a 2nd layer, sag = 0.3", add a third layer sag =... Kind of beam deflection but apparently other factors enter. The laminations benefit by the glue & nailing. Anyone seen a simple mans table to this effect? Maybe an option for @Redneck7 is cut up a sheet of plywood & save his nice bench table top. All I can say is MDF is another kettle of worms for these applications. Its dense and 'strong' but has different properties than plywood. And if it ever sees liquid it turns to mush.
 
Yup, torsion box idea is excellent way to go if you are set up for the brown stuff. The depth provides rigidity in bending mode, I-beam concept.

1736715120523.png
 

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I started messing around with a nut from an anchor bolt from a site i worked on. I'm turning this into a spider for the spindle. I need to buy a boring bar kit tomorrow when stores open. Here's the progress so far.

As for the top. I don't think it's gonna be too bad. If any deflection happens, I see it happening lengthwise, but it's still straight as an arrow. That top is 1.25" thick finger grooved laminated hardwood blocking. I'll keep an eye on it.
 

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I got a shelf made this morning, turned out decent for just throwing it together with some old siding. I'll paint it when it comes down to paint the walls.

Also got the spider done, fits like a glove. Just need to get set up for drilling and tapping. Also need to put brass inserts in the set screws i picked up.
 
Got some more work done on the spider. Last few times I've planned to be in the shop, a call comes in and I have to leave for a fire or medical. So slow process lately. But it's been fun figuring things out and making that set screw holder to drill them out. I got the drill press finally from my family farm. It's nice to have that now. The spider holes seem offset, but there all offset the same way a couple mm.
 

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Got some more work done on the spider.

If you want or need to, you could also use that spider of yours as an RPM sensor by adding magnets.

PS - Really nice job on the brass tipped screws!

Are you doing barrel work?
 
If you want or need to, you could also use that spider of yours as an RPM sensor by adding magnets.

PS - Really nice job on the brass tipped screws!

Are you doing barrel work?
I won't be making barrels but I plan on threading tenons, muzzles and chambering barrels. Mostly for myself and friends but wouldn't mind trying to make more of a go at it.
 
I won't be making barrels but I plan on threading tenons, muzzles and chambering barrels. Mostly for myself and friends but wouldn't mind trying to make more of a go at it.

That's what I meant by doing barrel work.

Even with brass tipped screws, I find it can still mar a finish. So I cut circumferential strips of Copper out of Copper pipe to use as clamping collars between the screw and the steel.

Quite a few members do barrel work. We don't encourage related discussion on the forum, but you can always PM any of us. We are all happy to help where we can.
 
That's what I meant by doing barrel work.

Even with brass tipped screws, I find it can still mar a finish. So I cut circumferential strips of Copper out of Copper pipe to use as clamping collars between the screw and the steel.

Quite a few members do barrel work. We don't encourage related discussion on the forum, but you can always PM any of us. We are all happy to help where we can.
Thanks susquatch. Yeah, I didn't like the brass tipped screws at nait. It was marking my existing barrels more than I wanted. I was thinking of making some with plastic but just haven't found any plastic to use or looked into any. I figured this could get me going.
 
Thanks susquatch. Yeah, I didn't like the brass tipped screws at nait. It was marking my existing barrels more than I wanted. I was thinking of making some with plastic but just haven't found any plastic to use or looked into any. I figured this could get me going.

Sometime tomorrow, I will take a picture of my Copper rings for you. They work great.
 
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