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King Canada 7"x12" mini lathe, $1200, Red Deer, AB
- Thread starter JustaDB
- Start date
darrin1200
Darrin
$2K for the pair might be a decent deal.
Thoughts for a newbie such as my self trying to get into the hobby for $1800 for the pair delivered to me? I don't want too pay too much as I might want to upgrade in the near future if I enjoy machining
Jswain
Joe
You will want to upgrade both of those very quickly, and IMO would have to get both quite a bit cheaper in order to resell and fund the upgrade.
I'm not sure about the ability these little guys have, but I started with a Craftsman 109, and I found I could not do most of the work I wanted on it so it sat for years before I decided to try again and bought a 10x22. World of difference!
Might want to start a little bigger so it's not so frustrating.
Might want to start a little bigger so it's not so frustrating.
Thanks for sharing your experience, much appreciated!!
gerritv
Gerrit
it would help if you mentioned what you want to accomplish with the machines? Are you wanting to build model steam engines, or repair full sized ones. Or make parts for tractors and ploughs. What space do you have, what is your budget?
I have seen (and have in my possession) some fine model engines built using that sized machines.
Excellent advice Gerrit. Just to build on and clarify your point, @v70rr will need a bigger machine to make parts for farm machinery.
All thank you for the input, I am looking to do smaller to medium misc hobby/prototyping activities, mainly milling only because this fellow is selling bith am I considering the lathe this early. It gets expensive to sub out small shaft (2in OD x 6in long) modifications, or drilling/milling smaller (2 to 10in dimension magnitude) components, I understand these really are only made for Aluminum and that would likely be 95% of what I work with.
I am currently in no rush as money is more a factor than need at the moment, I'll reply a little more individually later when I have more time.
I'll also say this ultimately if I continue milling and using a lathe I'd want DRO, belt drive for mill and accuracy and reliability, so either I find out if I want to take on/learn machining through these and resell to get say a LMS w/ factor DRO which is close to ready to go for my long term needs or I pass on these and keep saving to get a LMS right off the bat. I have been interested in milling and lathe work for a while but not been able to justify spending the money and taking up space until lately, I am space and electrically limited so a knee mill and larger 220/240V equipment is off the table for me
I am currently in no rush as money is more a factor than need at the moment, I'll reply a little more individually later when I have more time.
I'll also say this ultimately if I continue milling and using a lathe I'd want DRO, belt drive for mill and accuracy and reliability, so either I find out if I want to take on/learn machining through these and resell to get say a LMS w/ factor DRO which is close to ready to go for my long term needs or I pass on these and keep saving to get a LMS right off the bat. I have been interested in milling and lathe work for a while but not been able to justify spending the money and taking up space until lately, I am space and electrically limited so a knee mill and larger 220/240V equipment is off the table for me
gerritv
Gerrit
Those machines will happily do steel, you just can't hog with it. I use 6mmand max 8mm 4flute carbide end mills on my slightly larger KC20 mill. Cuts steel like butter, just not 10mm deep cuts in one go.
My KC20 does not have belt drive, no idea why people keep going on about that. If you treat the machine with some respect them stripped gears is not an issue. The machine will let you know if you are pushing it too hard. Always listen to the machine.
My KC20 does not have belt drive, no idea why people keep going on about that. If you treat the machine with some respect them stripped gears is not an issue. The machine will let you know if you are pushing it too hard. Always listen to the machine.
Jswain
Joe
The kc20 = 264lbs = twice as much mass as the kc15.
You are basically getting the tooling for free, but with no warranty for the machine.
Bad deal IMO.
Same with the lathe honestly, they come up half assed regularly for half the price. With 9-10" lathes fairly regularly coming up for around the same price.
If you need something you could throw in your truck, carry to the basement, use in the garage etc then they might be ideal. But even for a basement shop I think the kc20 or similar ~300ish lb machines are a better starting point.
gerritv
Gerrit
As a beginner he shouldn't be looking for half priced half assed though shoulld he? He will get frustrated, waste his time and money and lose interest. While the KC15 isn't the mass of the KC20, it has been shown to work just fine in steel and cast iron for model steam engines. Sharp tools and some care will go a long way on a light machine.
1022 lathes worth having do not come up for that price so he will have a long wait. He h as already stated he has no space or money for larger machines.
1022 lathes worth having do not come up for that price so he will have a long wait. He h as already stated he has no space or money for larger machines.
I think the majority of new machinists start with a lathe and get a mill afterward. I'm not saying that's always the case, but certainly it is my perception of the majority. It also reflects my own thoughts about what makes the most sense for most new hobbiests.
I think it's also worth pointing out that it is easier to do a little milling with a lathe than it is to do a little lathe work with a mill.
Interesting insight. For me most of what I have needed to date has been milled, but some needs for lathe too, what would be a good example of milling with a lathe? If this is the case then maybe a package like this is a good intro, though I still feel the price is too much at $1800, thoughts offering $1600?
Someone made a good point re warranty but I am so busy in life at thr moment the machines will get used when needed and a new one would probably be out of warranty before I had decent hours on it anyway.
gerritv
Gerrit
Imo, our opinion on price to offer is not relevant, it is pure speculation since we aren't the seller. You should offer the 1600 if that is your number. Keep in mind you will also be asking them to put it on a skid and ship it. As with anything his asking price is not necessarily his selling price.
To add some info, he'd be driving it to my place not crating and shipping.
I guess I am just asking at $1600 ($800 each) with a handful of extras is that worth it in your experienced eyes or not? I am in no rush, would I use it earlier if I bought it, yes, but need it right away no.
At $1800 it seems like folks are on average on the fence
LMS seems to have some lathes on sale, thoughts on those? Though one of those would consume my entire budget.
I do, again, want to express my gratitude for all the help, opinions and experience people are sharing!!
gerritv
Gerrit
The folks who are on avg on the fence at this are the ones with (much) larger machines and have more experience machining.
My very personal opinion, thinking back to when I had no sapce (living in a condo) and no spare cash is that I would offer the $1600 after seeing the machines in person. Take along a sample of what you want to work on to see if the work envelope works at all. Twiddle dials, see if the machines are well used or little used (you can tell none of that from photos). Look for hammer marks, dings on the ways, holes in the mill table or vise, all the tell tale sign of maybe taking a pass.
Don't get caught up in the DRO or not stuff, that can be added later at different price points. It won't affect the accuracy of the machine, 'just' ease of use. The machnes do look reasonably well tooled up so you can get going doing stuff right away.
The above is my personal experience going from Unimat lathe to Taig lathe to KC102 lathe and a wierd horizontal mill to an Atlas horizontal to now a King KC20. Thankfully all in the fairly spacy basement shop. Also added a Sherline lathe for tiny work. You have to start somewhere.
My wife taught me a wonderful saying years ago, "f you don't ask you don't get". So make the offer and go from there. You have to know what your personal limit is financially.
gerrit
My very personal opinion, thinking back to when I had no sapce (living in a condo) and no spare cash is that I would offer the $1600 after seeing the machines in person. Take along a sample of what you want to work on to see if the work envelope works at all. Twiddle dials, see if the machines are well used or little used (you can tell none of that from photos). Look for hammer marks, dings on the ways, holes in the mill table or vise, all the tell tale sign of maybe taking a pass.
Don't get caught up in the DRO or not stuff, that can be added later at different price points. It won't affect the accuracy of the machine, 'just' ease of use. The machnes do look reasonably well tooled up so you can get going doing stuff right away.
The above is my personal experience going from Unimat lathe to Taig lathe to KC102 lathe and a wierd horizontal mill to an Atlas horizontal to now a King KC20. Thankfully all in the fairly spacy basement shop. Also added a Sherline lathe for tiny work. You have to start somewhere.
My wife taught me a wonderful saying years ago, "f you don't ask you don't get". So make the offer and go from there. You have to know what your personal limit is financially.
gerrit