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Is there any easy way to level a foot stock?

DPittman

Ultra Member
I'm struggling to get the foot stock for my dividing head leveled vertically. The two bolts get loosened to allow adjustment but because the body just floats between the block, it shifts all around when trying g to adjust. I hope there is a better way?
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Not sure this is the best/right way, but it worked.
I eyed up both dead center tips, put a machinist jack under the foot stock center and then put a indicator on the back side of the foot stock. I used another jack to raise the end up to match the front.
View attachment 31377

I only ever had to do it once. That was 10 years ago on my mill/drill. I didn't line up the points like you show. Instead I made a special alignment rod on the lathe with female centers on both ends that I mounted between centres on the universal head and tailstock, then tightened the tailstock bolts enough to hold it high, and then used a brass hammer to tap it down going back N forth till both the rod and the tailstock bar were centered and level. Then tightened the clamp bolts and centered again, and repeat till happy. Not sure the level part is really required though. It has continued to work just fine and has held zero over the last 10 years. I've not used it on my mill yet. I expect it will be just fine.
 
I only ever had to do it once. That was 10 years ago on my mill/drill. I didn't line up the points like you show. Instead I made a special alignment rod on the lathe with female centers on both ends that I mounted between centres on the universal head and tailstock, then tightened the tailstock bolts enough to hold it high, and then used a brass hammer to tap it down going back N forth till both the rod and the tailstock bar were centered and level. Then tightened the clamp bolts and centered again, and repeat till happy. Not sure the level part is really required though. It has continued to work just fine and has held zero over the last 10 years. I've not used it on my mill yet. I expect it will be just fine.
If I understand it right that will work just fine but if the tail/foot stock center is screwed in or out, as it is designed to be, if it is not level then the point would only be level I the position you aligned it at.
 
One of the other things I need to do one of these days is to make T-slot buttons for the bottom of my universal dividing head, tailstock, and 5C Spin Indexer so I don't have to spend all day getting them trammed. I confess I don't usually bother. I just set up in a way such that it doesn't matter.
 
If I understand it right that will work just fine but if the tail/foot stock center is screwed in or out, as it is designed to be, if it is not level then the point would only be level I the position you aligned it at.

Yes.... BFart..... Thanks for reminding me. You are absolutely correct. That's why it has to be level.

I forget way too many things too often anymore.
 
I usually double up on the washers on each end, when you tighten the washers act on each other and not so much the tailstock

Really? How does that work? I think my brain just stripped a gear.

Where is @PeterT and his amazing cad drawings when you need him?

Oh ya, prolly too busy playing with loopy propellers.....
 
Really? How does that work? I think my brain just stripped a gear.

Where is @PeterT and his amazing cad drawings when you need him?

Oh ya, prolly too busy playing with loopy propellers.....
I believe what @kevin.decelles
is referring to is that when tightening on the bolts that squeeze on the block that holds the center, that block tends to twist with the bolts. Extra washers would limit some of that twisting force from reaching the block.
 
I believe what @kevin.decelles
is referring to is that when tightening on the bolts that squeeze on the block that holds the center, that block tends to twist with the bolts. Extra washers would limit some of that twisting force from reaching the block.

I see.

I don't really want to play with my foot/tail stock cuz it's perfect the way it is, but I'd love to test that idea a bit to more fully understand it.

To date, I've only ever used bolt torque to limit the movement results of tapping with a hammer. Tighten more as you get closer and hope that final gronk doesn't move it.
 
I see.

I don't really want to play with my foot/tail stock cuz it's perfect the way it is, but I'd love to test that idea a bit to more fully understand it.

To date, I've only ever used bolt torque to limit the movement results of tapping with a hammer. Tighten more as you get closer and hope that final gronk doesn't move it.
Getting mine level and at the correct height was nearly as difficult with getting my lathe tailstock aligned (which still needs some tweaking). Yes once aligned and level, I'm never moving g it again.
 
I see.

I don't really want to play with my foot/tail stock cuz it's perfect the way it is, but I'd love to test that idea a bit to more fully understand it.

To date, I've only ever used bolt torque to limit the movement results of tapping with a hammer. Tighten more as you get closer and hope that final gronk doesn't move it.
..... well, I haven't levelled mine up yet...... I'll put the coffee on and await your arrival....:p
 
..... well, I haven't levelled mine up yet...... I'll put the coffee on and await your arrival....:p

Wouldn't that be nice...... Might even get it setup before we finished solving the world's problems and tears of laughter dried up.
 
Getting mine level and at the correct height was nearly as difficult with getting my lathe tailstock aligned (which still needs some tweaking). Yes once aligned and level, I'm never moving g it again.

If mine wasn't perfect the way it is, I'd have a go at it. But ya, I'm not touching it now.

If I ever ran across another one, I might set it up to work with my spin Indexer and try it then. But that goal isn't even on my list let alone have a priority rating.
 
I mistook your challenge, not centering the foot stick, but adjusting height. Trial and error for me
 
Where is @PeterT and his amazing cad drawings when you need him?

Haha you asked for it. I understand the fiddle factor issue. There is allowance in the the slots so the center can move up & down but also unwanted angular deviation (shown greatly exaggerated). And yes, the act of tightening the bolts might inadvertently influence the holder block. Only the tip of the dead center engages the part, however if you do have angle baked in then the part could get displaced when extending the dead center. So the DTI check looks good to me.

Maybe this was done off camera but I hate eyeballing center to center like that. You can get it close but I've gotten tricked myself (blame it on the glasses). Better is to stick a known cylindrical indicator bar with accurate center drills on either end. You could make one yourself. Engage it between centers & DTI across the top of bar on either end, noting max needle deflection value. Now it can be dialed in perfectly. And actually you could do the same check for fore-aft positioning by extending the DTI down in the mill quill across center

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