Product Hardness Files

Product

Everett

Super User
Nice! You'll never regret buying them. I'm very thankful for my set as it helps in deciding the usefulness of various bits of Scraptonium and Unknownium from my favorite scrap bins :D

That's an even better price than I paid a few years ago!
 

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
My machinist friend said there is a very specific way to use the files so as to do it 'correctly' & not wear/wreck the files. I didn't quite get what he was saying. The instructions seemed pretty straight forward - lightly drag across the surface, observe if it drags making a mark or skates & leaves no mark. I didn't see anything different in some YouTube product videos. Other than maybe starting with the highest RCN file e & progressing to softer vs. the other way round to preserve them as much as possible? Or use different areas of the file for same reason? I'll ask him again but have you guys come across any user tidbit?

For Scraptonium you will still require Special CLS Penetrant over & above knowing hardness. (Cuts Like Sh*t) penetrant turns a certain color. My Metal Supermarket 1018 turns brown. Don't know what it is about that rod, but I'm slowly beavering away, dreading when I have to use it. Yet I have other 1018 that machines just fine. I think it was something else & mislabeled.
 

RobinHood

Ultra Member
Premium Member
My Metal Supermarket 1018 turns brown. Don't know what it is about that rod, but I'm slowly beavering away, dreading when I have to use it. Yet I have other 1018 that machines just fine. I think it was something else & mislabeled.
I wonder if one stick is A36 (1018 hot rolled, which can contain more impurities and slightly more carbon) versus 1018 cold rolled, which has less carbon and typically is easier to machine?

I have run into the same problem as you when using “cheap” mild steel from HD, PA, etc. The cold drawn (expensive) stuff from MSM seems to be better. I have bought “not sure what this is - either 1018 or 1045“ out of their cut offs bin. There is a big difference in machinability.
 

LenVW

Process Machinery Designer
Premium Member
I wonder if one stick is A36 (1018 hot rolled, which can contain more impurities and slightly more carbon) versus 1018 cold rolled, which has less carbon and typically is easier to machine?

I have run into the same problem as you when using “cheap” mild steel from HD, PA, etc. The cold drawn (expensive) stuff from MSM seems to be better. I have bought “not sure what this is - either 1018 or 1045“ out of their cut offs bin. There is a big difference in machinability.
Cold Rolled or Drawn will have a work-hardened outer surface that has a better defined grain structure. Once you cut below the outer 1/16”, there is a ductile inner structure of 1018.

The best feature of CRS is the sizing (+0, -.001”). Great for shafting due to the wear resistance of the hard outer surface. Be sure to check for internal stresses if you are machining profiles and deep cross-sections.
 

RobinHood

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Be sure to check for internal stresses if you are machining profiles and deep cross-sections.
Tell me about it… got burned when making a replacement part for a lathe. The thing bowed like a reed in the wind.
 

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
1144SP (stress proof) is pretty good material to help with that kind of requirement. Nothing is guaranteed but SP stacks the odds in your favor & machines quite nicely actually. Post machining distortion is the bane of model engineers when it comes to multi-throw crank shafts.

I usually grab 12L14 when I can. It machines significantly better than 1018. Its actually as strong or stronger depending on alloys. For some reason (locally) the price difference is high & less 12L14 sizes to choose from. But once you are dealing with a bigger supplier the price spread is much narrower & all the sizes are represented. Disadvantage is lead content means welding is out & probably brazing too. I should use more 4140, but again, depends on the alloy.

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PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
That's why you need to build a spreadsheet!

I have yet to find a good online tool where you can just click materials & have it display/compare engineering parameters & flip between units. Why do I have to dig for data in this modern era?
Where is the big AI revolution I keep hearing about? How about start with smaller, practical, useful things like this? Or how about track my luggage with my airplane LOL.
I've seen some not bad ones in blade smith circles, but mostly focused on their alloys.

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LenVW

Process Machinery Designer
Premium Member
Engineer’s Edge has some reference charts.
You may need to be a member to access all of the data from their website.
https://www.engineersedge.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw15MoipVt7zp6Hez950xJUn&opi=89978449

I usually look through the open-source pages.
 

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Thanks, I have been on their site. Its quite good. The more extensive stuff, at least containing Excel workbooks, is accessible by membership 90-110 USD/year depending on flavor. Occasionally tempting but not enough for my personal purposes.

 
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