Grabbed a wood planer of marketplace

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Tom O

Ultra Member
I don’t really need this but the thought is it will be handy with draft angle’s for casting. It’s a little one around 2 or so feet long but I’m not sure how the motor attaches or the hp required any ideas?
The guard will be no problem to make it was $50 originally but marked down to $20 I couldn’t say no!

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Doggggboy

Doggggboy

Ultra Member
On my jointer the motor is below on the stand the jointer sits on. Mine is only 6 inches and I think the motor is 3/4 hp.
Works fine as you take pretty light cuts on a jointer. Planers usually do the surface width of the board and jointers do the edges.
 
trlvn

trlvn

Ultra Member
I don't recognize that jointer. Is there a name or model number somewhere? The adjustment knobs look familiar but I can't place it. What is the width of the cutter head?

The Vintage Machinery site probably has one or more manuals for it with recommendations motor size and cutter head max RPM. BTW, the bearings for the cutter head are normally quite inexpensive and worth replacing while it is easy to do so.

The knives can usually be resharpened and you get to use your dial indicator to ensure they're perfectly parallel to the rear table.

BTW, $20?? You suck!

Craig
 
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boilerhouse

Ultra Member
Here is a 4 inch Teco model (Timothy Eaton Company), Canadian made by Beaver and its replacement, a Canadian made 6 inch Rockwell-Beaver. i built stands for both the 4 and 6 inch models, the 4 inch had the motor mounted to the front, and the 6 inch is mounted below. The manual called for a 1725rpm and 1/3 hp minimum with an 8 inch motor pulley for the 6 inch jointer to get a cutter head speed of 4800 rpm. My motor is 1/2 hp and this seems quite adequate. I donated the 4 inch jointer to our local Restore.


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Bandit

Super User
I have a Beaver jointer (I believe), don't use it much. Generally, they are used to straighten one surface of a board before the board is put in a planer, otherwise the planer will follow the surface that the drive of the planer is on. This can result in a board becoming thinner and still being as near bad as was to start. Long table enterance and exit "can" help prevent this with care in use.
Some boards are like cold rolled steel when machining!
Nice shiny orange in the background,"boilerhouse".
 
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Dan Dubeau

Ultra Member
For $20 I'd say you did alright. My FIL had a little 4" beaver like that and he cranked out a lot of really nice work on it over the years. He's upgraded to an 8" now.

I've been keeping my eye out for a little one like that for cheap so I could make a deburring machine for work. A custom fence on a 45, with adjustable width, would make very quick work of deburring/chamfering aluminum blocks. Currently use a handheld trim router with a 45* bearing bit. It works great, but one can never have too many tools.
 
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