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dumb question about deep sockets

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Compared to a regular socket, does the internal hex extend further, or is it just the socket body that is longer & about the same internal hex distance?
 

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I am a mechanic. I prefer the Snap On 99% of the time, but it all depends on what you are doing. I have both to choose from now that I work from home, and use both depending on which side of the shop I'm working in.
 
The depth of the internal hex depends on who made the sockets. On some like snap-on the depths are shallow. On my old craftsman sockets the internal hex is much deeper.
 
The broaching varies with manufacturer. I like full depth, but others like being able to hold the nut. The shallow depth ones tend to be stronger. When it comes to mechanics tools, the ceiling hasn't been raised much in 60 years, but the floor certainly has.
 
I'm making some chuck key extensions/adapters. Some chucks are less convenient to access the screws with the typical tommy bar handle keys in Spindexer, RT setups or whatever. So the thought was mill a hex on the end & standardize on a common socket. For example a card of 3/8 drive 10mm shallow for $18. I also saw some combo sets with like 3 deep & 3 shallow, but I think for this purpose shallow is preferred. The mistake I made before was making the key from 1/2" hex stock. The socket fits over it fine like a regular nut but its always loose & flopping around. I want the key to be integral with the socket, kind of like hex key sockets. So I'm going to mill the hex dimensions with a light interference fit & tap it in the socket. Amazing the different sizes of box dimensions on chuck screws

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I had/have a few that will not let a shank go in past 1 nut depth. Not fun trying to run a nut down a thread on ready rod or a longer bolt with some extra stick though. They may have migrated to the “can” along with a “fairwell” statement. Can’t remember a make, cheap or otherwise. Then again may have gave to a deserving person. This is only to be found out in the middle of no where, generly in the winter.
 
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I have some where I chopped the the end off, welded a pipe on and welded the drive end on the end of the pipe. I works better with impact sockets, they are softer thus tougher. They come in handy when you make up your own puller.

If you find a 12 point that fits your square bar, you can tack it on. SS rod is more forgiving of hi-carbon steel.
 
OK am I losing my mind? I ordered 10mm sockets, they have 10 inscribed on outside, but clearly are smaller internal socket dimension
Shouldn't this dimension nominally be 10mm regardless of 6 point or 12 point? Maybe for another M10 purpose? Nuts or something smaller? I thought 10 meant 10
 

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OK am I losing my mind? I ordered 10mm sockets, they have 10 inscribed on outside, but clearly are smaller internal socket dimension
Shouldn't this dimension nominally be 10mm regardless of 6 point or 12 point? Maybe for another M10 purpose? Nuts or something smaller? I thought 10 meant 10

10 should mean 10. Mine do. You might have found another example like 123 blocks where they copy but miss a major function.
 
What are the odds I grabbed the misfit? (Well the odds are actually 1 in 6 haha). They were supposed to be identical but E10 is obviously meant for something else. 5 are keepers, I'm still money ahead.

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Hey, Stefan is copying my stuff! LOL (or maybe my interference fit weld-less/braze-less adapter has a downside I'm not yet aware of)

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