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Dumb idea: 120v Buzz Box with 240v?

dehved

Member
all good points, but its current that kills and of course it has to go across your chest. Unlike a spark from the carpet, there's a lot of current with a welder. i thought that the number was around 24V, that above that there could be enough current through the chest to possibly cause problems?
I would argue it's neither AC/DC, AMPS/VOLTS that kill - it's low resistance/impedance by sweat on skin/salt in water combined with a large supply of either AC/DC, Amps or Volts.

It doesn't take much to make it to the heart or stop your brain's milivolt message to control your muscle and let go from a shock.

Interesting YT about the debate:
 

Ironman

Ultra Member
wheres the report ?

Does it actually crank out 200A or is it more like 160A measured like most of the chinesiamp units claiming 200?
I never put my ammeter on it but by the way it burned 1/8- 7018 I have no doubt it will burn 5/32.
At 140 amps on a 5/16 plate, laying a bead 3/4 from the edge, the plate got red hot to the edge, so I backed off the amps to 115
So whatever amps you like it to be, that's what it does.
I have a 200 amp tig/stick rig and all I can say is that it is a tig welder with an embarrassment setting that uses stick.
 

phaxtris

(Ryan)
Premium Member
Premium Member
I have a chinnesium 3 in 1 that i use for onsite hand rail, advertised 175a, here is what i have to say

I can tell you the displays are useless, but as for a welder it does fine with 1/8 7018 (although the dial says like 160? something like that), and with a few washers under the wire tension adjustment it actually burns wire pretty well, i have at least 10lbs through it.

It looks and feels like a cheap piece of junk, but it does work well, surprisingly, when it shits the bed i will replace it with something a little nicer, probably name brand

It would be dam near impossible for someone to learn with one without some help as the displays are utterly useless, set it at 90a on the display, more like 60a, and if a guy didnt know it would be a struggle fest, the mig voltage display is somewhat accurate, but the wire speed display maxes out yet wire speed still increases if you turn the dial more, never tried with tig
 

dehved

Member
Trip report:

I took the cables apart from the $70 amazon job, and they're all 10 or 12 gauge stranded copper coated aluminum (CCA). Replaced with new tinned copper (core) #4 battery cables. The stinger appears to be cast iron with an electroplating of copper. Just a thin #18 pin loosely holding the stinger clamp hinge together. Replaced hinge pin with some solid #10. Cracked the cast iron stinger torquing down A hex set screw to the new cable.

Not much performance improvement from upgraded cables. 1/8 7014 runs ok, better once heated up. Tripped the double 15 breaker on full chooch burning 1/8 6010, Closer look at the data plate references 20A at 240v for 60% poop cycle and 38A on 120, (lol), so i guess i'll have to power from a double 20 and #12.

Not a fan of the 50A 6-50 to 5-15 dog bone adapters supplied with these chinese units. The supply cord to the unit is only 12/2, same with the adapter. Having them on a 50A breaker seems problematic. Even the plasma cutter that came with 6-50 cord was only #12.... eeek
 

Ironman

Ultra Member
Well, you had to find out the hard way. Some are good and some are not, but nothing good comes from lighting $70 on fire.
And as I see it chinese multi use mig-tig-frig stuff never works well.
 
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