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Tips/Techniques Does This Look Right?
- Thread starter Tomc938
- Start date
Tips/Techniques
It's perfectly normal to tape off or otherwise "neutralize" the neutral. It isn't often used in a 220V single phase machine.
As @David_R8 points out, it's only value if connected is to provide 110V Accessory support. But even that can be done with an onboard transformer. Same goes for 24V systems.
It really doesn't matter if the plug has a neutral or not. If it's taped off in the machine, it prolly wasn't needed.
It's more important to look at what you have available in your shop. If you have a 220 outlet with a neutral, you are better off using a mating male plug with the neutral blade in it, but maintain the disconnected neutral at the lathe. That way you retain full functionality at the wall outlet. If your wall outlet doesn't have the neutral, then you should use a plug that doesn't have it either and tape off the neutral in your cord at both ends. It's either that or replace the entire cable with one that has no neutral (this is the preferred solution but I'm too cheap to buy new cable).
As @David_R8 points out, it's only value if connected is to provide 110V Accessory support. But even that can be done with an onboard transformer. Same goes for 24V systems.
It really doesn't matter if the plug has a neutral or not. If it's taped off in the machine, it prolly wasn't needed.
It's more important to look at what you have available in your shop. If you have a 220 outlet with a neutral, you are better off using a mating male plug with the neutral blade in it, but maintain the disconnected neutral at the lathe. That way you retain full functionality at the wall outlet. If your wall outlet doesn't have the neutral, then you should use a plug that doesn't have it either and tape off the neutral in your cord at both ends. It's either that or replace the entire cable with one that has no neutral (this is the preferred solution but I'm too cheap to buy new cable).
My thoughts were along that line. I know the ground is the important one, but my 220V knowledge is a little sketchy.
My RF-30 mill was 220 and only had the two hots and the ground, but that matched the plug.
This one was wired directly, so no plug to check.
Now that I have the mill and this 220 lathe, I'm going to need to run a larger wire out to the shop. The old wiring is too light for the loads I am anticipating. Good thing wire is cheap, even though I will only run one machine at a time. ;o)
My RF-30 mill was 220 and only had the two hots and the ground, but that matched the plug.
This one was wired directly, so no plug to check.
Now that I have the mill and this 220 lathe, I'm going to need to run a larger wire out to the shop. The old wiring is too light for the loads I am anticipating. Good thing wire is cheap, even though I will only run one machine at a time. ;o)
What’s the amp draw for either machine?
Looks like yours is 120V?
The lathe is 1.5 hp at 220V. According to the internet, that equals 11.5 amps full draw.
The milling machine is a different question.
This is the main plate.
Looks like it is 575 volts originally. Seller told me it is wired 220 now. Have no reason not to believe him.
The power switch plate is:
So assuming the switch is correct for the machine, 2 hp at 220V is the maximum it can handle. So 13.8 amps.
Pretty sure I ran 10/2 from the main panel to the sub panel, and 8/2 from there to the mill. I'll check fro sure tomorrow.
Oh yes that's a important little detail I forgot to mention
. Sorry!That's an odd plate. It is not unusual for multiple AC voltages and options for single or 3 phase, but AC (induction) motors don't run on DC and vice versa.
Also, 2 phase is single phase. This is a common error. It just means that the two hot wires are not in phase and the peak voltage changes accordingly. But the motor only sees the difference in voltage between them in a single circuit - 2 wires. Unlike 3 phase power where there are multiple circuits and 3 conductors are required (3 for delta, 4 for Y).
Also, 2 phase is single phase. This is a common error. It just means that the two hot wires are not in phase and the peak voltage changes accordingly. But the motor only sees the difference in voltage between them in a single circuit - 2 wires. Unlike 3 phase power where there are multiple circuits and 3 conductors are required (3 for delta, 4 for Y).
The plate is on the switch, so I think it’s a “universal” switch that can be used for ac or dc applications. I was just interested in the rating of the switch. And working on the assumption that they would not exceed the specifications of the switch. The mill comes with either 1.5 - 2 hp options. So I used 2 hp to leave room for error. If it’s only 1.5 I’m still fine.