Chicken lights mistakes

[Chicken lights]

We are not off to a good start. The forum says my pictures are too large to upload... yet I've posted tons of photos before....

Microlux mini mill. Will try to download the PDF owners manual tomorrow.

Cannot use the (quill?) hand wheel to lower the cutting head, there is a large silver knob located at the face of the head that allows 25-50 thou of fine adjustment, moving the hand wheel at the same time.

DRO's shouldn't or power feeds "shouldn't" affect manual controls....?

The fault light lit up on the power feed when trying to use it, but I believe power feed is L to R, not up and down....?

 

[phaxtris]

We are not off to a good start. The forum says my pictures are too large to upload... yet I've posted tons of photos before....

it did this to me as well, i had to re-size my photos in paint in order to upload

 

[ChazzC]

I’m assuming you got this used? If you have problems downloading the manual from MicroMark, you can download a generic mini-mill user manual from Little Machine Shop. They also have instructions for a table power feed.

For the Z-axis, in order to use the levers to move the head, you need to pull the shaft to the right to disengage the fine feed (you may need to release pressure on the rack by raising the head slightly with the fine feed knob).

In order to use the table (X-axis), you must first turn the power/speed knob off and set the direction switch to the center position; you may also need to unplug the power to the power feed unit.

Before you try using the mill, you need to go through the installation & setup procedures. Good luck and have fun!

 

[Chicken lights]

For the Z-axis, in order to use the levers to move the head, you need to pull the shaft to the right to disengage the fine feed (you may need to release pressure on the rack by raising the head slightly with the fine feed knob).

That worked! Thanks!

Before you try using the mill, you need to go through the installation & setup procedures. Good luck and have fun!

Where's the fun in that

 

[ChazzC]

That worked! Thanks!

Happy to help; feel free to reach out with more questions.

Where's the fun in that

I know you’re kidding, but you’ll be happier with the results if you take the time to snug up gibs, tram the mill, etc. and get a safe start.

 

[Chicken lights]

Anyone know the name of the tool to help find a zero? The smaller tip is kind of spring loaded, it oscillates from the main body to let you zero the quill (mostly for setting zeros on your DRO)

Or, if anyone has a different method/tool, I'm all ears

Can you use an end mill to drill, or are the flutes not the same as a drill?

 

[YYCHM]

Anyone know the name of the tool to help find a zero? The smaller tip is kind of spring loaded, it oscillates from the main body to let you zero the quill (mostly for setting zeros on your DRO)

A Center Finder, or a wiggler depending upon the style.

Can you use an end mill to drill, or are the flutes not the same as a drill?

Plunging endmills have two opposing flutes that meet in the center. Most 2 flute endmills are plunging endmills, most 4+ flute endmills are not.

 

[ChazzC]

Anyone know the name of the tool to help find a zero? The smaller tip is kind of spring loaded, it oscillates from the main body to let you zero the quill (mostly for setting zeros on your DRO)

Edge Finder:

Used to "find" the edges, then by a little math determine the center between the edges. Search YouTube for "Using an Edge Finder.

Or, if anyone has a different method/tool, I'm all ears

Alternatively, can use the pointy probe of a Wiggler:


Or the other end of a double-ended Edge Finder:

to pick up a center mark/scribed center line intersection. YouTube "How to use a Wiggler to locate a center."

If you use a double-ended edge finder, be careful that the other end does not extend too far into a collet – it may catch on the back side of the collet and you'll have to play with it to get it removed.

Can you use an end mill to drill, or are the flutes not the same as a drill?

Yes and no: while a center-cutting end mill, either 2- or 4-flute (2-flute also called a slot drill; 2-flute do a better job of removing chips than 4-flute as there is more space for the chips), it is not as efficient a tool if all you are doing is making a round hole; drills are better (steeper spirals, more clearance for chips) at this and cost less.

You may want to check out Quinn's (Blondiehacks) Mill Skills Playlist:

 

[Chicken lights]

That was my next question- how to pick up the centre of a bushing in order to centre the drill. I'll check out those YouTube vids this weekend

Two votes for a wiggler, eh? I'll have to look for one

 

[thestelster]

That was my next question- how to pick up the centre of a bushing in order to centre the drill. I'll check out those YouTube vids this weekend

Two votes for a wiggler, eh? I'll have to look for one

Most accurate way is with a dial test indicator.

Next would be if you had a set of gauge pins. Choose the pin which slides into the hole best, then chuck the pin gauge and move your table until the pin slides into the hole.

Next best is use a drill bit and do the same as above, but align the lips of the bit slong one axis, watch the tip of the drill bit for the direction it moves, correct for it, then rotate the drill bit 90° and check and correct, and repeat a couple times.

 

[Susquatch]

@Chicken lights - when are you next swinging by here. I could show you the alternatives.

In the meantime, I have found that the electronic edge finders are pretty darn good and a lot less cost than you might imagine.

https://a.co/d/cPxnehz

I paid 3x that for the equivalent accusize but I doubt it makes a huge difference.

For locating on existing holes, I do exactly what the @thestelster recommended in his post.

 

[whydontu]

Bit of a splurge, but a coaxial indicator is spiffy. I use mine all the time, in the mill to locate centres and also in the lathe to reset the tailstock after I’ve turned a taper.

CO-Ax Indicators, White and Yellow Face, mm and inch

The Accusize co-axial indicator is commonly used as the following tools (and solutions): co-axial indicator, dial indicator, dial co-axial indicator, precision centering instrument for locating a work piece on a horizontal or vertical machine tool while the spindle rotates under power, setup...

accusizetools.com

Amazon has much cheaper ones.

 

[ChazzC]

Before we get too far along, we need to remember that @Chicken lights is new to the hobby, has a Mini-Mill which has limitations (notably Z-height – I have used my Coaxial Indicator less than 5 times due to the limited hand room, even with a 2" riser block on the column).

We need to remember back when we first started, what we did to get around not having a Bridgeport (or even a reasonably sized Bench Mill) and base our recommendations on that early experience (that's the reason I suggested Quinn rather than Joe Pie).

 

[ChazzC]

That was my next question- how to pick up the centre of a bushing in order to centre the drill. I'll check out those YouTube vids this weekend

Two votes for a wiggler, eh? I'll have to look for one

I have both (and multiples of the edge finder since I did a comparison last year on another Forum), but seldom use the wiggler unless I need the extra long reach you can get.

For locating above a center punch, I typically use a fine-tipped point, like Frank Hoose (who also has a lot of introductory videos):



I "made" mine by breaking the flutes off of a 0.1mm carbide bit:

 

[combustable herbage]

I like the edge finder in comparison to the wiggler, most of the time I don't even spin it up, I push the bottom of the finder towards the workpiece and adjust the position and test the ridge with my fingernail until its not existent. I like this way because you can adjust back and forth safely if you overshoot. The times I have had to find the center of a bigger hole, I have used the test indicator with the best success.

 

[ChazzC]

Next would be if you had a set of gauge pins. Choose the pin which slides into the hole best, then chuck the pin gauge and move your table until the pin slides into the hole.

I am reluctant to use my gauge pins in a drill chuck, but dowel pins work the same and are less costly.

However, IMO the easiest way to locate an existing hole (if you aren't going to use a DTI) is to use a cone (these an others like them are available on eBay as "small centers"):


Chuck one up, locate above the hole then maneuver so that the cone drops into the hole (much like with a pin, but handles odd-sized holes and even polygons):


The larger the center, the bigger the hole you can quickly locate.

 

[ChazzC]

@Chicken lights - when are you next swinging by here. I could show you the alternatives.

In the meantime, I have found that the electronic edge finders are pretty darn good and a lot less cost than you might imagine.

https://a.co/d/cPxnehz

I paid 3x that for the equivalent accusize but I doubt it makes a huge difference.

Mini-Mills do not always play well with the electronic edge finders since the spindle & bed may not be electrically connected (mine is, so they would work, but more batteries to replace).

 

[Chicken lights]

@Chicken lights - when are you next swinging by here. I could show you the alternatives.

Are you in the fields yet planting? And do you have any Redding case sizing wax, (for a different project)?

 

[Susquatch]

Are you in the fields yet planting? And do you have any Redding case sizing wax, (for a different project)?

No farming yet. Soon.

I have paste case wax, but not Redding.

 

[Chicken lights]

No farming yet. Soon.

I have paste case wax, but not Redding.

I'm heading the wrong way tomorrow, see what the week brings