Cherry Red hardening compound ?

[LenVW]

Does anyone have ‘first-hand‘ experience with this product ?


Cherry Red is a fast acting hardening powder, when applied to steels, will develop a case hardening surface. Cherry Red is used on parts such as knives, punches, drills, chisels, cutting edges, and small tools.https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com...Red is a fast,cutting edges, and small tools.

Cherry Red Surface Hardening Compound for Metalworkinghttps://www.harrisproductsgroup.com...Red is a fast,cutting edges, and small tools.​

The Harris Products Group

https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com...Red is a fast,cutting edges, and small tools.
I was going to use it to harden a few wear surfaces on a few 1018 HRS Linear Slide ‘components’ for an actuator that I am testing. I you have used this compound, please comment.

 

[YYCHM]

CA-BC - Cherry Red surface hardening compound

Hi guys. I'm looking for a Canadian source for the above case hardening powder. It is obviously available from the American manufacturers, but the shipping costs are prohibitive. I have found one supplier in Canada, but there is a $100 purchase minimum.

canadianhobbymetalworkers.com

 

[LenVW]

CA-BC - Cherry Red surface hardening compound

Hi guys. I'm looking for a Canadian source for the above case hardening powder. It is obviously available from the American manufacturers, but the shipping costs are prohibitive. I have found one supplier in Canada, but there is a $100 purchase minimum.

canadianhobbymetalworkers.com

@YYCHM . . .
Thanks for the QUICK reference to the previous posts !!
A read thru the comments and I have my answer.

 

[Arbutus]

I use this frequently. Its one of those learn by experience products. By that, I mean the end result is entirely user-dependent.

The case is entirely dependent on the amount of soak time at 1450F. Most folks simply plunge in the compound then quench. But it takes about 45-60 secs per thou of depth to diffuse the carbon into the steel at 1450. I Try for a 4-6 thou depth.

Secondly, the case is extremely hard and brittle. You must temper the part after the first quench. Do this by quenching in cold water, which will crack off the scale, (Do not let the metal drop below 200F!) then immediately transfer into a soak oven preheated to the tempering temperature. I prefer something like 350F for 2 hours for cutting tools.

Finally, pickle the part in 1 cup strong vinegar, 2oz salt and 2 tablespoons 37% muriatic acid for an hour. Use a wire brush to clean off the scale and you're done.

There's a post I made somewhere on this forum with pictures.

Have fun, but don't breath in the magic smoke. Its not so good for you!

Don

 

[LenVW]

Thanks Don.
Heattreating relies on temperature control and process timing.
I can appreciate the tempering stage to reduce embrittlement and internal stresses.
A 4-6 thou case would be fine.

 

[Bandit]

It might seem a bit costly for the powder, but consider the old timers would gather hoof clippings and other carbon rich pieces, grind/ chop them up, put object to be case hardened in a container with hoofs etc., seal container and put it in a hot fire and let everything cook for some time, while maintaining fire. And not always a near garrentyed result. Anyway, a bit time consuming, anyone do it the older way still?

 

[Arbutus]

Thats how I learned. The foreman had a 'clag' he called it - a messy sticky paste made from treacle (molases), bones, charcoal, even horse hair. That was slopped onto the part to fully encase it, then it sat in a box in the forge embers for an hour or two. I have no idea what the starting metal was, but it came out hard as all heck.