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Tips/Techniques Carbide insert chamfering tool for AXA

Tips/Techniques

slow-poke

Ultra Member
Looking for Ali Express type suggestions for a carbide insert tool holder and inserts for chamfering the open end after facing when using a lathe

I have been using SDNCN1212H07, however would prefer something with a smaller angle and ideally a holder that projects to the left.

Something like the blue one in the image below.
chamfer.png
 
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I have a CCMT holder set from way back (OMG the prices have gone insane!). But it uses the insert in different orientations you don't see on many generics. One is a true 45-deg in orientation you show. Another uses the 'rarely used' wide angle point of parallelogram. Mentioning more in case you wanted to make one, but maybe you can find something similar elsewhere.

 
And then of course there is the arguably more useful grind-yer-own from HSS so you can do Innies & Outies with the same tool

View attachment 59716

+1 for that Peter!

But let me also add that grinding your own HSS also allows you to do beautiful radiused chamfers too! I have several tools set up that way. Even a rough curve is better than a sharp 45 most times.
 
My favorite.

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I didn't notice that it's getting a bit dull till I took the photo. The nice thing is that you can choose the edge you wish to fillet cleanly to, and of course it is two tools in one. It has lots of back rake so it can be used on the inside of small tubes.
 
My favorite.

View attachment 59728

I didn't notice that it's getting a bit dull till I took the photo. The nice thing is that you can choose the edge you wish to fillet cleanly to, and of course it is two tools in one. It has lots of back rake so it can be used on the inside of small tubes.
So how did you make that? Dremel Tool? Or soften it first, mill the radius and then harden again? Sharpen with round stone? Would you please show the side and the front profiles?
 
So how did you make that? Dremel Tool? Or soften it first, mill the radius and then harden again? Sharpen with round stone? Would you please show the side and the front profiles?

Nothing fancy John. Just hand held against an old bench grinder with rounded corners, then polished with a round dowel coated in rouge.

I can't do any more photos for you till tonight. Nothing fancy though, just a ton of back rake on all three faces so it clears small diameter work. All three faces wouldn't be needed at all if I didnt want to make it useful for front and back inside and outside tube edges.

I usually use it in the trepanning configuration (aligned with the spindle). But it can also be used in a standard side facing cut.
 
So how did you make that? Dremel Tool? Or soften it first, mill the radius and then harden again? Sharpen with round stone? Would you please show the side and the front profiles?

Here are a few more pics per your request John.

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20250214_091343.jpg

As I said earlier, it's nothing fancy but it works really well and I use it all the time. It is especially good at making tangent chamfer edges. The heavy back rakes are just there to accommodate small tubes. Same concept as a boring bar back rake/relief.

I just happened to be using it today. I parted off the end of a brass tube that fits onto a keyed shaft. That left two sharp edges and some burrs. So I chamfered the inside and outside edges as shown in the photos. Both photos are in process. In the photo, it looks like a rounded 45 chamfer. But I chose to complete the chamfer of both the outside and inside tangent to the axis of the bore to improve the looks of the outside joint and the function of the inside bore to easily slip onto the keyed shaft.

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I like what Whoopee has done. Sometimes (smaller bores) the tool holder / bottom of insert will touch - not a big deal to pop the holder ~050 above center to gain a little clearance.

Next Ali order will include a chamfer boring bar. I’ll try it and let you know.
 

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There may be slight chamfer tool differences for tool post reasons too.
If it has dovetail/toolholder is on chuck side like picture, then the external/internal type chamfer tool might look like my post #4. That way the toolholder can stay in position, sometimes convenient if preserving alignment is important. Otherwise the tool post just needs to be swivelled 90-deg to accommodate holder aligned to spindle axis & cutter style like post #7. My (piston style) toolpost has 2 dovetails so I typically park it with dovetail on both these planes. But sometimes the dovetail on part side is in the way so... as usual always pays to have extra tools & holders!

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My (piston style) toolpost has 2 dovetails so I typically park it with dovetail on both these planes.

Yes! And yet another reason for a Tool like my HSS Grind that can come from any direction too.

Chamfering is one of those tasks where I don't really like 45 degree tools. I always end up feeling like the 45 edges need chamfering too!
 
There may be slight chamfer tool differences for tool post reasons too.
If it has dovetail/toolholder is on chuck side like picture, then the external/internal type chamfer tool might look like my post #4. That way the toolholder can stay in position, sometimes convenient if preserving alignment is important. Otherwise the tool post just needs to be swivelled 90-deg to accommodate holder aligned to spindle axis & cutter style like post #7. My (piston style) toolpost has 2 dovetails so I typically park it with dovetail on both these planes. But sometimes the dovetail on part side is in the way so... as usual always pays to have extra tools & holders!

View attachment 59777
That is probably the main reason I prefer the 40 position tool holder (I have one lathe with the dovetail style and two with the 40P) - on the 40P the tool approach angle can be easily changed to something close enough without having to reposition the tool post. Like Peter says, repositioning the dovetail style post is not a big deal (it is a good pretty good setup, I have a nice selection of holders, not going to swap it out just because of an occasional repositioning of the tool post).
 
I use a CCMT straight tool like Mr Whoopee, but I've relieved the holder behind the side point so I can get inside chamfers from the same front position. I usually just touch them with a file though, as I find cutting them leaves a burrthat needs a file touch anyway. Depends on the size though, as a rough guess, anything under a 10-15 thou edge break chamfer I'll just file.
 
I'll add it to the list of things I need to make out in the shop :D.

Actually I've long wanted to make a multi cutting edge HSS chamfer tool for the lathe that could hit almost all edges one could create, but these little projects just never seem to find the same priority as starting big ones.....lol. Someday.....Something similar to yours, but with a crooked 45* neck that could also back chamfer would just about be perfect for 98% of most chamfering needs.
 
Something similar to yours, but with a crooked 45* neck that could also back chamfer would just about be perfect for 98% of most chamfering needs.

Hmmmm....... Yes, I can't do that. Not yet anyway. I'm gunna need to figure that one out.

Prolly best to buy a 45 degree blank and go from there. Too much grinding to make my own.

No need for Fusion, but if you could sketch what is in your head, I'd appreciate it.
 
chamfer toolbit.png


Excuse the quick MS Paint sketch lacking scale, But i'm envisioning something like that. You could incorporate the curved edge geometry like yours too if you wish, but that shape would tackle a lot of different edge breaks/chamfers that one would encounter on a lathe. I think I've got some bigger HHS chunks out there I could get one out of with some quick zip wheel action. A crank neck brazed carbide would get you 98% of the way there though......Hmm, maybe just make a holder for a CCMT insert. Good 2nd life holder for when the tips are gone, but sides are still sharp. That's kind of what I use my straight holder for anyway.
 
Excuse the quick MS Paint sketch lacking scale,

Paint works just fine for me Dan!

It isn't quite what I was picturing so I'm glad you took that time. I think I could modify a HSS threading blank to be like that. I'll have to give it a go.

Thank you!
 
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