car battery chargers

[DPittman]

While this is generally true for cars and light trucks, I don’t get the same lifespan in the big truck. I’ve gotten in the habit of changing them every fall. It’s right around $200-220 for all four batteries once the cores are returned, I consider it cheap insurance for the winter.
I should probably change the two in my little F350 this year, they’re getting up there. One is around 4 years old the other one who knows how old.

Ok I just gotta tell you my story now....
I used to say once a vehicle battery got to be 5 years old that I shouldn't be surprised if it would fail. Small motorcycle and quad batteries would usually never last 5 years.
A couple of years ago the battery in my minivan turned 10 years old and showed no signs of slowing down but I replaced it because it was fall and I didn't want it failing on my wife. The battery in my truck right now was bought in 2010. I thought about replacing it in the fall but I figured I would just wait and see with it. It has been sitting out unstarted for a week in this cold and I think I will charge it before I even try.

I've had small motorcycle style batteries last 7 years and I chalk that up to have a solar/ trickle charger on them whenever they were in storage.

 

[CalgaryPT]

While this is generally true for cars and light trucks, I don’t get the same lifespan in the big truck. I’ve gotten in the habit of changing them every fall. It’s right around $200-220 for all four batteries once the cores are returned, I consider it cheap insurance for the winter.
I should probably change the two in my little F350 this year, they’re getting up there. One is around 4 years old the other one who knows how old.

LOL. I'm sure you are right.

I often forget that between you and @Brent H my residential world is waaaay different than heavy duty industries. Actually, I am jealous...every time you guys talk of your adventures with heavy metal I want to be there too

Sadly, when I look on Indeed I don't see any postings for heavy duty equipment assistants who are almost dead, with failing rotator cuffs, knees, back, elbows, heart, eyes, and want to nap routinely every afternoon. But I will keep looking. I'll also want an orthopaedic back pillow as a condition of employment, but maybe I'll save that request for the interview.

 

[Chicken lights]

LOL. I'm sure you are right.

I often forget that between you and @Brent H my residential world is waaaay different than heavy duty industries. Actually, I am jealous...every time you guys talk of your adventures with heavy metal I want to be there too

Sadly, when I look on Indeed I don't see any postings for heavy duty equipment assistants who are almost dead, with failing rotator cuffs, knees, back, elbows, heart, eyes, and want to nap routinely every afternoon. But I will keep looking. I'll also want an orthopaedic back pillow as a condition of employment, but maybe I'll save that request for the interview.

I’m not kidding in the slightest when I say this. I am going to be hiring a new Geriatric Assistant probably within 2-5 years. My current Geriatric Assistant is 78 now and, well, I hate to say this, he’s slowing down a little.

Job duties include but not limited to moving vehicles around, light mechanical repair and fabrication, yelling at me that I’m doing it wrong, picking up parts, napping in the shop while “supervising”, napping in the truck waiting, telling stories from before I was born and a running commentary usually involving telling me I’m “#1” or some variation telling me where to go and how to get there.

Not having a cell phone or working knowledge of a GPS or computer is a bonus, that way any errands the Geriatric Assistant gets sent on are routinely 6 times as hard to accomplish

Leaving a note on the door is still considered “good communication”

It doesn’t pay much, but the current GA gets free storage in my shop, suppers and coffees, use of a heated passenger seat, use of my shop and free use of my truck and trailers. Plus the GA gets my labour in return free of charge on his projects

 

[Dusty]

@Chicken lights, you must have one super fantastic father-in-law, and you don't even provide room and board. LOL

 

[Brent H]

I am getting quite a "charge" out of these battery stories for sure! hahahahahaha

Our big industrial type ice breaker is now sitting awaiting some programming information to fix a bogus telegraph that is running rogue - I really despise electronics/computer system programming when it fails...argh!

Anyway digressing......, batteries and maintaining them.....

Charger wise I have a very old (maybe 30 years old) Canadian tire jobbie that has 6-12 volt with 2, 10 and 50 amp settings. Still works quite well but is not "automatic" for shutting off once a battery is full up to speed.

What type of battery are you going to charge? AGM, Lead Acid, Gel.....this will affect what charger you use and how it goes about charging the battery .

Regular Lead acid you can get away with pretty much throwing 14 volts at 2 amps and you will slowly charge - provided there isn't some issue with the battery. Overtime the plates in the batteries tend to plug up and the ion transfer is not as efficient, battery amp hour capacity drops and eventually the battery needs constant charge. You lads out in the prairies can generally experience very cold winters that last for extended periods. Cold batteries work slower and are not great in the lower temps (below like -20). If you have a battery that gets very low on charge the electrolyte can freeze. Once frozen the battery will die very quickly. If you thaw it and charge it you may or will have issues with dead cells (plates that will not fully charge) - this can lead you to believe you have the battery all set and a few days later it is toast.

You have to be careful with the Gel, AGM batteries as they need a different charging method and the charger will indicate that is it good to go for those type batteries. We had a lad hook up the regular charger to an AGM 12 volt for the small boats and it basically ruptured after 1 hour charge and gassed out the winch compartment. Luckily no one was in the space when it ruptured or they might have had a bad day. We have gone through a lot of chargers over the years but we still have the big roll out (like @CalgaryPT ) and we have a smaller motor master that is rated for the AGM batteries.

If you have a dead battery in the car and the voltage is less than 9 or so, it may be that you can charge but your battery will never fully recover. the deep cycles are designed to take the loads to lower voltages and can then be charged back up multiple times. Car batteries are typically maintained around 12.5 to 13.5 volts and are not really designed to be constantly drained and charged. @Chicken lights has quite the bank of batteries but they should be able to sustain some drain and recharge as is the requirement of having a large truck and the camper section.

One thing that will help with the cold starts is a battery blanket to keep things warm and those ions flowing around quickly. If the battery is dying soon after recharge, usually, Crappy tire will load test it for you and see if it is worth saving. If a new battery is toasting quickly - check for drains in the system, bad grounds, onboard computers not shutting down etc....

Recommended chargers....hmmmm....I have had good luck with the motor master one at Canadian Tire but they do not carry it.

This on is on sale and general all purpose for lead acid/gel and AGM:https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...y-charger-with-80a-engine-start-0111979p.html

 

[Chicken lights]

I am getting quite a "charge" out of these battery stories for sure! hahahahahaha

Our big industrial type ice breaker is now sitting awaiting some programming information to fix a bogus telegraph that is running rogue - I really despise electronics/computer system programming when it fails...argh!

Anyway digressing......, batteries and maintaining them.....

Charger wise I have a very old (maybe 30 years old) Canadian tire jobbie that has 6-12 volt with 2, 10 and 50 amp settings. Still works quite well but is not "automatic" for shutting off once a battery is full up to speed.

What type of battery are you going to charge? AGM, Lead Acid, Gel.....this will affect what charger you use and how it goes about charging the battery .

Regular Lead acid you can get away with pretty much throwing 14 volts at 2 amps and you will slowly charge - provided there isn't some issue with the battery. Overtime the plates in the batteries tend to plug up and the ion transfer is not as efficient, battery amp hour capacity drops and eventually the battery needs constant charge. You lads out in the prairies can generally experience very cold winters that last for extended periods. Cold batteries work slower and are not great in the lower temps (below like -20). If you have a battery that gets very low on charge the electrolyte can freeze. Once frozen the battery will die very quickly. If you thaw it and charge it you may or will have issues with dead cells (plates that will not fully charge) - this can lead you to believe you have the battery all set and a few days later it is toast.

You have to be careful with the Gel, AGM batteries as they need a different charging method and the charger will indicate that is it good to go for those type batteries. We had a lad hook up the regular charger to an AGM 12 volt for the small boats and it basically ruptured after 1 hour charge and gassed out the winch compartment. Luckily no one was in the space when it ruptured or they might have had a bad day. We have gone through a lot of chargers over the years but we still have the big roll out (like @CalgaryPT ) and we have a smaller motor master that is rated for the AGM batteries.

If you have a dead battery in the car and the voltage is less than 9 or so, it may be that you can charge but your battery will never fully recover. the deep cycles are designed to take the loads to lower voltages and can then be charged back up multiple times. Car batteries are typically maintained around 12.5 to 13.5 volts and are not really designed to be constantly drained and charged. @Chicken lights has quite the bank of batteries but they should be able to sustain some drain and recharge as is the requirement of having a large truck and the camper section.

One thing that will help with the cold starts is a battery blanket to keep things warm and those ions flowing around quickly. If the battery is dying soon after recharge, usually, Crappy tire will load test it for you and see if it is worth saving. If a new battery is toasting quickly - check for drains in the system, bad grounds, onboard computers not shutting down etc....

Recommended chargers....hmmmm....I have had good luck with the motor master one at Canadian Tire but they do not carry it.

This on is on sale and general all purpose for lead acid/gel and AGM:https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...y-charger-with-80a-engine-start-0111979p.html

So maybe you or someone else can answer this-

I had a cobra 2500 watt inverter. I could leave the fridge plugged in on Friday night and on Sunday still start the truck. Modified sine wave, as is the case in most cheap inverters.

That died, I was told they aren’t worth fixing.

Found a pure sine wave inverter at Napa for $700 or so, happy days we sailed that ink jet printer off the truck and switched to laser.

With the exact same fridge, microwave, cables, laptop, etc, I barely get overnight out of the same batteries. New batteries didn’t change it either. Alternator still charging fine. The only difference is the inverter.
Any insight why? I do notice the fan runs quite a bit on the new inverter

 

[PeterT]

We can run house 110v to the parked vehicle to a dedicated maintainer/float charger but.... I'm also wondering about a potential standalone solution like this. Reading the fine print (there is always fine print) looks like the cigarette lighter plug may not facilitate this depending on the plug configuration itself. How could I test that? If ignition off & I cant power a device through plug that means no go? Or is power 'in' a different thing? Are there more sophisticated versions of these that can get directly wired to battery?
https://www.amazon.ca/Sunway-Solar-Maintainer-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B06WP95W51

 

[YYCHM]

https://www.amazon.ca/Sunway-Solar-Maintainer-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B06WP95W51

Darn, I just threw one of those things out. Hadn't used it in 20 years so out she went.

 

[John Conroy]

In the old days all cigar lighter outlets were fed from the battery without the need for the ignition to be on because they were used to light the occasional cigarette when the key was off. Today people plug every device they can think of into that outlet. It was a major source of dead battery complaints so all the manufactures have gone to ignition on required to have the outlet powered. That means you can nor longer use the cigar lighter socket to connect a charger to the battery.

 

[PeterT]

Thanks John. That's kind of what I figured. I also heard some had diodes or fuses or something to prevent max amp draw.
I wonder if there is an upscale permanent solution where its a solar panel power source but wires are routed/connected directly to battery terminals? One would think - but there are probably also reasons why not.

Been looking into the line of smart chargers you mentioned. Its a 110v solution but maybe that's another strategy, just plug it in once a week during cold/dormant periods. Would I be asking for trouble if I made a harness from the the battery to the grill area for the charger (kind of like the block heater plug sticking out for 110v plug).
https://smartercharger.com/collections/vehicle

 

[CalgaryPT]

You hard wire it to the battery. Kits like this come with the hardware to do that. Very popular with lots of guys...https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/battery-tender-junior-0-75a-maintainer-0111940p.html

 

[CalgaryPT]

I’m not kidding in the slightest when I say this. I am going to be hiring a new Geriatric Assistant probably within 2-5 years. My current Geriatric Assistant is 78 now and, well, I hate to say this, he’s slowing down a little.

Job duties include but not limited to moving vehicles around, light mechanical repair and fabrication, yelling at me that I’m doing it wrong, picking up parts, napping in the shop while “supervising”, napping in the truck waiting, telling stories from before I was born and a running commentary usually involving telling me I’m “#1” or some variation telling me where to go and how to get there.

Not having a cell phone or working knowledge of a GPS or computer is a bonus, that way any errands the Geriatric Assistant gets sent on are routinely 6 times as hard to accomplish

Leaving a note on the door is still considered “good communication”

It doesn’t pay much, but the current GA gets free storage in my shop, suppers and coffees, use of a heated passenger seat, use of my shop and free use of my truck and trailers. Plus the GA gets my labour in return free of charge on his projects

Doesn't pay MUCH? MUCH???? After 30 years of dealing with politicians and lawyers and flying back and forth to Ottawa to get beaten up publicly...I was thinking I would pay YOU just so I could volunteer and hang out in a shop. We'll have to have beers when this silly Covid thing is over

 

[Chicken lights]

Doesn't pay MUCH? MUCH???? After 30 years of dealing with politicians and lawyers and flying back and forth to Ottawa to get beaten up publicly...I was thinking I would pay YOU just so I could volunteer and hang out in a shop. We'll have to have beers when this silly Covid thing is over

Perfect! I can afford a beer salary

 

[John Conroy]

With the Ctek charger you can leave it connected to the battery at all times, even it it's not plugged in. You can pull the cord out to the grill just like a block heater cord. It can be plugged in 24/7 when the vehicle is parked and it will monitor the battery's state of charge and top up the charge if it drops by 5%. It doesn't use any power from the 110 volt source when not charging. I have used a few different brands of maintainers including Battery Tender and Noco and had inconsistent results. I've been using a Ctek MXS 5.0 for a couple of years now and I'm happy with it.

 

[DPittman]

We can run house 110v to the parked vehicle to a dedicated maintainer/float charger but.... I'm also wondering about a potential standalone solution like this. Reading the fine print (there is always fine print) looks like the cigarette lighter plug may not facilitate this depending on the plug configuration itself. How could I test that? If ignition off & I cant power a device through plug that means no go? Or is power 'in' a different thing? Are there more sophisticated versions of these that can get directly wired to battery?
https://www.amazon.ca/Sunway-Solar-Maintainer-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B06WP95W51

View attachment 13326

I would think that if you have power flowing to the outlet when vehicle ignition is off you would be okay to power back to the battery but I'm not an expert on diodes and gizmos. It also seems to me that one of my vehicles has power at the outlet for a set period after turning vehicles off but then it goes off eventually, so make sure you don't have that.
Also realize those little solar chargers are VERY low amperage and really only good at maintaining a well charged battery in the long run. I have a few of them on small batteries that work very well but they are only seasonally used.

 

[CalgaryPT]

The way to test this is to plug the tender into the dash outlet. Disconnect the car battery, plug in the tender to AC power, then test for voltage across the disconnected cables at the battery. If there is voltage there the dash plug does not have a diode and it will work. The risk is that if it does have a diode no power will feed back into the car's computer and you will lose your radio, seat, clock, etc, settings. Personally I would opt for the tender connection directly hardwired to the car battery. Run the 110AV plug through the grill so it comes out next to the block heater cord so you can power both as needed. Then you can forget about it. The dash power outlet and alligator clips are more for temporary use.

Here's a good overview of why many car electrical systems disable power altogether when the ignition is off, and not just with a diode anymore, but with a relay. Again, this is why rather than try to fool around with the cigarette lighter/power plug approach, I favour hardwiring.

https://www.quora.com/Why-don-t-the...ve-constant-power-like-they-did-in-older-cars

 

[Tom O]

I believe the outlet behind the console of my Ford 150 is live all the time.

 

[DPittman]

I believe the outlet behind the console of my Ford 150 is live all the time.

I've got vehicles with live all the time outlets, some with no live outlets and another that has one live outlet all the time.

 

[Swharfin']

Aux. lighter kits are cheap PA, CTC, NAPA you can buy female socket only
Hire a GA heck I are one I'm self employed. X2
And expert too = EX being a has been & SPURT just a drip under pressure