Bonding aluminum to aluminum
- Thread starter DavidR8
- Start date
While his upgraded motor would probably handle a larger disk, he would loose the functionality of the table and mitre guide. I'd suggest keeping as is and buying/making a separate disc machine if you need bigger.
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
When I said "tiny" I meant the thickness of the backplate - not actually the size of the disk. I.e. instead of gluing aluminum plates together, than machining it, maybe its easier just to start with a new plate of AL or steel. His more powerful motor would have no issues bringing say 1/4" steel back plate up to speed. Sometimes starting fresh may be cheaper and/or faster than trying to fix something that is broken.
Yup. I think I will end up reboring the hub as that's definitely the majority of the problem.
Turn a disc that mimics the pulley angle.
Cut the disc into sections and use them as wedges with your Jaw Chuck for turning the hub faces and reboring for the shaft. This should result in clamping contact that is based on the pulley faces and getting all the mounting surfaces inline with the pulley faces.
Cut the disc into sections and use them as wedges with your Jaw Chuck for turning the hub faces and reboring for the shaft. This should result in clamping contact that is based on the pulley faces and getting all the mounting surfaces inline with the pulley faces.
Am I the only guy here that sees this as a simple one and done job, on a faceplate? Could do in a four jaw chuck with the jaws outboard, but that has the non-benefit of potentially warping the face of the disk as the jaws are tweaked tighter.
The object IS to get the face of the disk to run true, no?
Seems to me that the simplest answer, is to put the face of the sanding disk against the known true face of the face plate (it had better be true, or it's not much use as a faceplate!).
Bore out the hole to an appropriate sized piece of round bar, set that in place as you see fit, I would suggest a permanent bearing retainer Locktite type product. Drill and bore to size for the drive shaft. If you REALLY doubt your abilities to bond the bushing in, you can afterwards drill and tap a few setscrew holes along the joint line between the two parts, use the same bonder for securing them permanently in place. You will need a thicker wall bushing, aka: larger diameter stock, and hole for it.
I don't see any advantage, and lots of disadvantages, to gripping on the pulley. Main one is that the pulley is die cast zinc crapola, and while easily replaceable, those type are not well known for their nearness to perfection...
The object IS to get the face of the disk to run true, no?
Seems to me that the simplest answer, is to put the face of the sanding disk against the known true face of the face plate (it had better be true, or it's not much use as a faceplate!).
Bore out the hole to an appropriate sized piece of round bar, set that in place as you see fit, I would suggest a permanent bearing retainer Locktite type product. Drill and bore to size for the drive shaft. If you REALLY doubt your abilities to bond the bushing in, you can afterwards drill and tap a few setscrew holes along the joint line between the two parts, use the same bonder for securing them permanently in place. You will need a thicker wall bushing, aka: larger diameter stock, and hole for it.
I don't see any advantage, and lots of disadvantages, to gripping on the pulley. Main one is that the pulley is die cast zinc crapola, and while easily replaceable, those type are not well known for their nearness to perfection...
That was my plan. Faceplate all the way!