Bluing Steel Plate
- Thread starter SomeGuy
- Start date
SomeGuy
Hobbyist
yeah, which would be needed with bluing anyway...just wondering if it does any good on a large surface like that. I've got other steel benches that I just wipe down with whatever when I use them and they've been fine, but this one won't have full access to the surface with a lathe sitting on top lol
Put lots of oil down when you mount her?
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SomeGuy
Hobbyist
Sure...
so what you're saying is it's not at all worth it and won't help anything to blue it?
Crankit
Well-Known Member
Blueing doesn't provide any protection but looks nice when you oil it
I do lots of cold bluing. It won't last (or even work for corrosion protection). Even hot bluing won't last. I like to spray (or brush) on some "Fluid Film" between stuff that won't be moved and regularly oil exposed surfaces.
I also know a fellow who used CeraCoat. No idea how it's holding up under his machine though.....
I also know a fellow who used CeraCoat. No idea how it's holding up under his machine though.....
trlvn
Ultra Member
AIUI, "bluing" is a thin layer of (controlled) oxidization of the surface of the steel. Not hard to scratch through it or rub through it in time. Standing water would still lead to rust. Industrial bluing processes probably put on a deeper layer of protection but it is just a matter of time until bare metal gets exposed. Easy enough to strip and re-apply if you wanted, but not a permanent solution.
I think alternatives would be to paint or even powder-coat the metal. Unless you baby it, however, it will eventually become scratched or worn.
Your best bet is the 'embrace the natural patina'!
Craig
I think alternatives would be to paint or even powder-coat the metal. Unless you baby it, however, it will eventually become scratched or worn.
Your best bet is the 'embrace the natural patina'!
Craig
Brent H
Ultra Member
Hey @SomeGuy : Where is your bench going to be? Unheated garage, shop? I have my welding bench in the garage and, while I painted the frame items, I left the top as raw metal. After the last 5 years it does not pick up much rust and basically a lick with the wire wheel would remove anything that built up. It does get engines, machines and other "non welding" projects set upon it and - yep, there are leaks onto the table. That gets wiped up and off I go again - no real "preservative"
If you are working in a damp environment I would suggest keeping the surface clean and wipe up any water spills - adding your oil would nix any flash rust.
If you are working in a damp environment I would suggest keeping the surface clean and wipe up any water spills - adding your oil would nix any flash rust.
Agree, blueing wont last. Even high quality catalyzed paint might be challenged over the long haul wit sharp chips, cutting fluid....
I can fit 2 cheapo plastic serving trays under my lathe & they are great for catching swarf & drippings. The big plus is I can simply pull them out to empty in the trash. Or to find the valuable part that just fell down into swarf oblivion. You can get inexpensive baking trays in different footprint sizes if you prefer metal.
I can fit 2 cheapo plastic serving trays under my lathe & they are great for catching swarf & drippings. The big plus is I can simply pull them out to empty in the trash. Or to find the valuable part that just fell down into swarf oblivion. You can get inexpensive baking trays in different footprint sizes if you prefer metal.
historicalarms
Ultra Member
I have done a pile of cold bluing and agree with the general consensus. It wont provide any protection against scratch's or dings and any fluids or chemicals spilled on it can immediately affect the coverage. In a very controlled environment it can be an effective, pleasing finish. It can look nice if you get the right blue product to suit your steel ....all bluing does not work equally on all steel's but if you get the right one, a couple or 3 coats of cold bluing can be as attractive as hot bluing
SomeGuy
Hobbyist
Yes, normally unheated (but insulated with a NG unit heater) garage that has one or two vehicles normally parking in it that can be brought in a little snowy.
This bench is for the lathe I just got....my other steel top folding bench I made has been uncoated for a couple years and is fine, I just wipe it down when I'm done using it with WD40 usually. This one was just not going to be as easy to wipe down with a piece of equipment bolted down on top, so I was trying to figure out if there was a better way to keep it from rusting.
Brent H
Ultra Member
@SomeGuy : my lathe is a 10" Utilathe that has all new seals etc. The lubrication of the drive gears and the gear box and the feed/lead screws and lubrication of the parts being cut, the ways etc etc typically keeps the pan nice and someway oily - no rust to build up.
When my wife was out one day I swiped a shallow roasting pan from the back of her cookie sheet stash (shhhhh....). She did a bit of a double take when she saw it under the lathe as a chip tray but didn't say anything as it was then full of oil and chips. Even with that there there is always collateral splatter! I have a stainless guard that keeps stuff from escaping to the far reaches of the shop.
When my wife was out one day I swiped a shallow roasting pan from the back of her cookie sheet stash (shhhhh....). She did a bit of a double take when she saw it under the lathe as a chip tray but didn't say anything as it was then full of oil and chips. Even with that there there is always collateral splatter! I have a stainless guard that keeps stuff from escaping to the far reaches of the shop.
Even at 50 years, I do not have the kind of spherical body parts required to try that experiment. I'd rather drive hours to an upscale cooking place and then spend hundreds of loonies than take that risk.
historicalarms
Ultra Member
I learn't my lesson on stealing kitchen stuff long ago...stole 2 tupperware bowls to use as a base & tub for my first brass tumbler (those 2 bowls and a $5 PA surplus motor with a weight hose-clamped on served me well for a # of yrs)....now, if the Dollar Store doesn't have it I don't need it.
idea......hot rolled sheet, what ever gauge you need. It's black/blue, very smooth, durable and protects from rust. A lot of guys think the scale might like what you'd sometimes get on bar stock, thick and flakey and gnarly. But its not. I'd say 99% of steel fabrications are made from hot rolled coil and not sandblasted. The scale so smooth and well bonded you just paint over it (unless a really fussy spec calls for it, the 1%).