123 Blocks

[6.5 Fan]

Got a Busy Bee flyer in the mail, they have 123 blocks on for $19.99 or 2 sets for $17,99/ea. I will be ordering 2 sets as i currently have none. Sale flyer is good till Nov 4

 

[trlvn]

Amazingly inexpensive and the description says "Accurate to 0.0001" per inch".
Also, the picture does seem to show some of the holes are threaded:

Buy 1-2-3 Block at Busy Bee Tools

A 1-2-3 block is an essential layout tool for both metalworking and woodworking. The block measures exactly 1 inch in thickness, 2 inches in width, and 3 inches in length, making it a reliable reference for precision layout work. Constructed from hardened steel, these blocks are built to...

www.busybeetools.com

It is tempting...

Craig

 

[Susquatch]

Amazingly inexpensive and the description says "Accurate to 0.0001" per inch".

Be interesting to measure them and see if they really are.

But to be truthful, I never use them that way. I do like the two to be matched though. And I bought a set of 4 that were all the same.

Also, the picture does seem to show some of the holes are threaded:

Wonder if it's the good kind of threaded or the stupid ones that are practically useless.

Regardless, for that money they will be plenty good enough!

 

[RobinHood]

Wonder if it's the good kind of threaded or the stupid ones that are practically useless.

Just take a carbide endmill and open the non-threaded holes for clearance. Solves the problem. Did that to mine. Worked like a charm.

 

[PeterT]

@RobinHood that's good to know. Was there anything special about the endmill type? I've heard the core is a bit softer than outer skin but not for the first 0.2" or so. I'll check with my new fangled (somewhat subjective) hardness files.

I was actually thinking about buying a dedicated (offshore) donor carbide tool for this purpose in case it went 'snap' but couldn't decide between a drill & EM. The EM was actually cheaper but I was concerned about the the delicate EM cutting edges vs. conical edges on drill. One would think a drill would be better at.... drilling? But I have also seen people drill with ball ended EM's.

 

[RobinHood]

@RobinHood that's good to know. Was there anything special about the endmill type? I've heard the core is a bit softer than outer skin but not for the first 0.2" or so. I'll check with my new fangled (somewhat subjective) hardness files.

I was actually thinking about buying a dedicated (offshore) donor carbide tool for this purpose in case it went 'snap' but couldn't decide between a drill & EM. The EM was actually cheaper but I was concerned about the the delicate EM cutting edges vs. conical edges on drill. One would think a drill would be better at.... drilling? But I have also seen people drill with ball ended EM's.

Actually it was a used 1/2” EM from a tool buy. Was not even very sharp. Lots of cutting oil and slow speed (rpm) and relatively high hand feed to be sure it would make a chip & through it went. I think it was a Niagara Cutter (or some other US made one - I’d have to check for you).

If I were to buy a new, specific endmill, I would get one with a decent corner radius as the one I used did lose its edge. Most probably because it was already damaged / dull. This was a 4F. I would get a 3F or 5F one.

The web on any drill (carbide or HSS) is too thin in my opinion. Good chance of twisting it off once it grabs.

Because of the flute length of the EM I had, I needed to flip the block around and mill from both sides to make it all the way through the hole. (A longer fluted one would solve that problem. ) But since it is just clearance, hole accuracy does not matter and I just eyeballed the center by floating the EM into the existing chamfer.