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Being from California, I have little to contribute here, but I do have one thing to add. When priming raw metal or a fresh weld, I use ZRC (zinc rich coating, cold galvanize). It's not just a sealant (it may not seal at all), but it provides some galvanic protection to retard corrosion. YMMV

When I need a tool like that, I grab an old tap and grind away all but one "tooth". Spares me having to grind the profile and it as built in top rake. The tap just has to be a coarser pitch than the thread you're cutting.

I inherited an extra 4x6. It was always in the way, until I converted it to permanent vertical. Now it's one of the most used tools in the shop.

I just did the dance with UPS. I had two shipments of tool steel and one from SendCutSend. All three were "Being Delivered" on Thursday, no show. Again "Being Delivered" on Friday. Again no show. I called the 800 number and after the usual BS she told me she would have the local terminal call...

That's a smokin' deal, even in USD!

Don't know if it will help up north, but I've been getting better prices than McMaster, and some sizes they don't offer, here, : https://toolsteelservice.com/

I was drilling & tapping a bunch of parts on the mill the other day. I had finished setting up the tapping head when I discovered that I had missed 2 parts in the counter-sinking step. Took the parts and counter-sink out to the DP and quickly solved the problem. Granted that a floor standing DP...

The only way to know is to try. Ask 20 weldors how to weld cast iron and you will get 100 different answers. There are just too many different types of cast, and no way to identify what you have. As mentioned, try running a bead somewhere on the part in question and see if it sticks. Regarding...

No leadscrew either. It's a "chucker" (don't know why they're called that, they usually have collets). They're production oriented precision turret lathes. You can bang out a lot of the same part with one. Manually operated screw machine.

Here's what I did.