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Wood tool chest finish-boiled linseed oil?

J

JustaDB

Ultra Member
As I noted some time back I'm working on constructing a wooden tool chest for tooling & metrology.

I'm at the assembly stage & am considering finish options for the drawer interiors. I read elsewhere that boiled linseed oil is a rust preventative. Is there any inherent rust preventative ingredient in the BLO itself, or is it merely the act of covering a surface that prevents the rust from forming? I guess what I'm asking is, with the BLO applied to the wood surface & not the tooling/metrology proper, is there any rust preventative advantage to using it?

I used birch plywood throughout the construction. In addition, I will be lining the drawers after finishing them.

I do reside on the bald-assed prairie (aka, semi-arid desert) & humidity/corrosion is not usually an issue, but while I'm at this stage of assembly, why not?

Any other suggestions? How about the carcass exterior? Urethane/varathane?

TIA
 
JustaDB said:
As I noted some time back I'm working on constructing a wooden tool chest for tooling & metrology.

I'm at the assembly stage & am considering finish options for the drawer interiors. I read elsewhere that boiled linseed oil is a rust preventative. Is there any inherent rust preventative ingredient in the BLO itself, or is it merely the act of covering a surface that prevents the rust from forming? I guess what I'm asking is, with the BLO applied to the wood surface & not the tooling/metrology proper, is there any rust preventative advantage to using it?

I used birch plywood throughout the construction. In addition, I will be lining the drawers after finishing them.

I do reside on the bald-assed prairie (aka, semi-arid desert) & humidity/corrosion is not usually an issue, but while I'm at this stage of assembly, why not?

Any other suggestions? How about the carcass exterior? Urethane/varathane?

TIA
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I have absolutely no idea...... However, you know the rules, we are going to need some pictures of the build up to this point....... Without them, this box potentially might not exist......:rolleyes:
 
Teak oil is a nice durable finish if you're not looking for shiny. The more coats you put on the darker it gets. The handwheels on the mill are cherry finished with teak oil.
As to rust protection (teak or BLO) I can't say, you could try it on a piece of scrap and let it sit out side for a week or two.
 
140mower said:
I have absolutely no idea...... However, you know the rules, we are going to need some pictures of the build up to this point....... Without them, this box potentially might not exist......:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
LOL. I will take photos of the finished product and, as much of a PITA it is for me to get photos onsite, I promise to do so.
 
thestelster said:
I'd stay away from linseed oil, boiled or not. That stuff is not waterproof and almost never realy dries. Go tung oil. Easy to apply, deep penetration, waterproof, thoroughly dries, and beautiful results.
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Plus, linseed oil (because it’s non-drying) is what leads to spontaneous combustion fires if the wiping rags aren’t disposed of properly.
 
That’s one thing that surprises me and you never see them for sale anywhere you’d think Princess Auto, Busy Bee or Canadian Tire would have some when you think of all the do it yourselfers out there.
 
2 coats of Watco Danish oil, natural color cant be beat, my go to for all my interior wood work, furniture etc, used it on my birch jewelry tools toolbox.
Linseed oil good for exterior applications, siding etc. but stays gummy
 
If you decide you really do want to use the boiled linseed oil, apply it liberally but when your done make sure to wipe up all the excess or u will have a just a very messy job
 
Boiled linseed oil gets a bad rap mostly because there are so many suppliers, with so many different types and processes. Good stuff is good. Bad stuff is bad. I prefer good Tung oil, or one of the better gunstock finishes like Tru - Oil. Used properly Tru-Oil is great stuff!
 
Just reading your initial post again @JustaDB. I'm in the rust belt of SW Ontario, not in the dry desert air of the prairies, so my outlook is very different.

But if you are worried about metrology corrosion, I personally would recommend a good VCI in each drawer instead of oily drawers.

Plastabs with Zerust Rust Prevention and Protection 1" x 3" - Pack of 10 https://a.co/d/3nmmN0S

Or perhaps something like these:

Shield Technology ToolGuard VCI (twelve pots) https://a.co/d/1A0uPFv

I have no idea where you read about the corrosion advantages of using linseed oil, but I'm not inclined to put much faith in that approach at all. I'd prefer a good dry finish on the inside of my drawers (especially the ones I'm wearing), and an active corrosion protection system for the tools themselves.
 
Susquatch said:
Just reading your initial post again @JustaDB. I'm in the rust belt of SW Ontario, not in the dry desert air of the prairies, so my outlook is very different.

But if you are worried about metrology corrosion, I personally would recommend a good VCI in each drawer instead of oily drawers.

Plastabs with Zerust Rust Prevention and Protection 1" x 3" - Pack of 10 https://a.co/d/3nmmN0S

Or perhaps something like these:

Shield Technology ToolGuard VCI (twelve pots) https://a.co/d/1A0uPFv

I have no idea where you read about the corrosion advantages of using linseed oil, but I'm not inclined to put much faith in that approach at all. I'd prefer a good dry finish on the inside of my drawers (especially the ones I'm wearing), and an active corrosion protection system for the tools themselves.
Click to expand...
ZeRust also makes VCI drawer liners that are sold on Amazon: I’d post a link but it would be for the U.S. Amazon site. (edit - added for you, Susq)

Zerust 91132 Anti-Rust and Corrosion Drawer Liner, 12 in x 72 in https://a.co/d/4VyxcsC
 
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