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Western Metal Lathe $1750
- Thread starter johnnielsen
- Start date
From the photo it looks like a clean machine all-be-it not used much of late, wiring appears to be buggered. 48" bed might be a bit much for someone starting out. Just saying
calgaryguy
Chris
That seems like a good deal! Any guesses to what that might weigh?
Johnwa
Ultra Member
Found this. Apparently they were made in India.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/western-lathe-any-information.85394/
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/western-lathe-any-information.85394/
calgaryguy
Chris
How would you 'inspect' such a unit? I have a couple of Lee Valley veritas precision straight edges: lay one on the ways and check for wear with feeler gauges? Backlash in the crossfeed? How smooth and quiet it sounds while running in various gears?
How and where would a noobie begin to 'inspect' a potential purchase? Invite tom or dabbler to come along for a nice bottle of bourbon/spirits?
How and where would a noobie begin to 'inspect' a potential purchase? Invite tom or dabbler to come along for a nice bottle of bourbon/spirits?
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
Well, you could hire my mother - when she sees a junk she would tell you
Alternatively watch few videos about inspection.
Main thing for a lathe to check:
1. is the bed worn? use your fingernail and go accross the V - if there are big gouges there on which your nail easily catches --> lots of wear.
2. are gears broken? power late on every speed - if no power try most speeds by hand. make sure you can move the chuck full 180
Other things are mostly 2ndary - such as:
- see whatever tailstock quill is not destroyed inside
- look for unusual wear on cross slide and anywhere else
- look for signs of abuse - such as big dents / no oil of any kind anywhere etc.
- check spindle runout with DTI
I am sure few others
But the top two are not a big deal... if you have trouble with #1 then just take the saddle as close to the chuck as possible, find locking nut (it is on the saddle usually above a V on the right side) and just lock it enough that you feel some resistance. Now move it towards the tailstock. If you cannot move more then 1/3 of the way - lots of wear. 1/2 - considerable. 3/4 - some wear. All the way - little wear.
Do not be too paranoid about #1 - some lathes never had hardened ways - Southbend and all have tons of wear. groves are at least 0.01 deep. Only this matter if you need to do precision long shafts that are thin.
#2 is a far bigger problem IMHO as you cannot run the machine at all. You can fix gears but it is an adventure - maybe not so good for a beginner.
Remember you can always re-sell your smaller lathe later if you go for it and a decent price.
Alternatively watch few videos about inspection.
Main thing for a lathe to check:
1. is the bed worn? use your fingernail and go accross the V - if there are big gouges there on which your nail easily catches --> lots of wear.
2. are gears broken? power late on every speed - if no power try most speeds by hand. make sure you can move the chuck full 180
Other things are mostly 2ndary - such as:
- see whatever tailstock quill is not destroyed inside
- look for unusual wear on cross slide and anywhere else
- look for signs of abuse - such as big dents / no oil of any kind anywhere etc.
- check spindle runout with DTI
I am sure few others
But the top two are not a big deal... if you have trouble with #1 then just take the saddle as close to the chuck as possible, find locking nut (it is on the saddle usually above a V on the right side) and just lock it enough that you feel some resistance. Now move it towards the tailstock. If you cannot move more then 1/3 of the way - lots of wear. 1/2 - considerable. 3/4 - some wear. All the way - little wear.
Do not be too paranoid about #1 - some lathes never had hardened ways - Southbend and all have tons of wear. groves are at least 0.01 deep. Only this matter if you need to do precision long shafts that are thin.
#2 is a far bigger problem IMHO as you cannot run the machine at all. You can fix gears but it is an adventure - maybe not so good for a beginner.
Remember you can always re-sell your smaller lathe later if you go for it and a decent price.
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
The first indication about wear and condition it to check the backlash in the cross feed and the compound feed. A smart seller will tighten them to read about .015, but most don't. In a cross feed with .100 feed rate per revolution, even .025 is acceptable, but barely. With .025 backlash, you can assume it was heavily used or not lubricated: -1 on the scorecard. Same for compound, and another -1, and so forth.
You need to check the play in the front bearing in the headstock.
In a used lathe, wear on the ways is far less important than how the gears sound and mesh, how the paron controls work, and how the tailstock feels.
I hope this helps.
You need to check the play in the front bearing in the headstock.
In a used lathe, wear on the ways is far less important than how the gears sound and mesh, how the paron controls work, and how the tailstock feels.
I hope this helps.
Chipper5783
Super User
I believe that is an MK machine - you can see the logo under the gear selector (Mysore Kirloskar) - like the Enterprise. I am happy with my MK machine (not real heavy duty, but a good serviceable product). Condition dependent.
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
I have MK lathe. Bed was soft and worn off. A bit abused... well more then a bit. The only thing that actualy functions semi well are the cross slide and compund. The cross slide has a split nut so a lot of backlash can be take out. The compound is semi worn.
My small good lathe on the other hand has cross slide totally worn out in the middle. But the ways are in excellent shape. I can move the saddle all the way back - almost no wear. The screw was simply soft & needs replacement.
My small good lathe on the other hand has cross slide totally worn out in the middle. But the ways are in excellent shape. I can move the saddle all the way back - almost no wear. The screw was simply soft & needs replacement.