Water seperator

[slow-poke]

I picked up an almost new compressor yesterday; Sanborn, 60 gallon, 240V, 20A. I was keeping an eye out for an older slower one, but this one came up close by so I can stop searching.

I have a really cheap PA water separator from my old compressor but it is bottom of the bucket cheap I think it was $10 on sale, so I'm looking for something of decent quality that won't leak or break the bank, suggestions please.

At some point I plan to separate the motor and compressor from the tank and then put the tank in the basement and keep the noisy part in the garage, there will be about 10' of 3/4" copper between the two and that should help cool the charge. I'm not sure yet if I will locate the separator near the compressor or the tank, thoughts?

 

[DavidR8]

I have that exact compressor.
I added a 16-pass aftercooler in between the head and the tank. Prior to this I would get a tablespoon or two of water in the tank after every tank fill. Adding the cooler and the water trap before the tank has eliminated all water going into the tank.
I think a water trap after the tank is useful for painting and blasting but depending on humidity levels there will still be a lot of water going into the tank unless it is removed prior to the tank.
A long line between the head and the tank will cool the air so putting the trap at the end of the 10' run will help remove a lot of water.

 

[slow-poke]

I have that exact compressor.
I added a 16-pass aftercooler in between the head and the tank. Prior to this I would get a tablespoon or two of water in the tank after every tank fill. Adding the cooler and the water trap before the tank has eliminated all water going into the tank.
I think a water trap after the tank is useful for painting and blasting but depending on humidity levels there will still be a lot of water going into the tank unless it is removed prior to the tank.
A long line between the head and the tank will cool the air so putting the trap at the end of the 10' run will help remove a lot of water.

David,

Can you post an image of your setup please.

 

[DavidR8]

David,

Can you post an image of your setup please.

DavidR8's shop shenanigans

Gathering up parts to make a post-compressor head air cooler to reduce the condensation going into my compressor tank. 16 pass transmission cooler from Derale, AN8 to 3/8 NPT and then compression fittings. Automatic drain water separator. Be interesting to see how well this all works. I guess...

canadianhobbymetalworkers.com

 

[Susquatch]

I'm not sure yet if I will locate the separator near the compressor or the tank, thoughts?

@DavidR8 did it right.

As the air cools, it will hold less and less water. Therefore, the separator needs to go at the end of the line closest to the tank.

In David's case, no more water condensed out of the system. That may not always be the case. It depends on your local relative humidity and the temperatures and pressures in your system. Ottawa area isn't the wettest climate but it isn't the dryest either. I'd plan to monitor your tank condensate and also watch the outlet air after any regulators or flow controls for several seasons.

 

[weldscap]

For a quality water separator, consider brands like Milton, Ingersoll Rand, or Campbell Hausfeld, which offer reliable options at reasonable prices. Place the separator near the tank to allow the compressed air to cool and condense moisture before it reaches the separator, improving its effectiveness.


4o

I have that exact compressor.
I added a 16-pass aftercooler in between the head and the tank. Prior to this I would get a tablespoon or two of water in the tank after every tank fill. Adding the cooler and the water trap before the tank has eliminated all water going into the tank.
I think a water trap after the tank is useful for painting and blasting but depending on humidity levels there will still be a lot of water going into the tank unless it is removed prior to the tank.
A long line between the head and the tank will cool the air so putting the trap at the end of the 10' run will help remove a lot of water.

 

[wharris1]

the cooler the air the better you will separate water, also if you need dry air you will need an air dryer two different animals
the separator is designed to create a turbulence so that water droplets will be left behind only
a drier will remove moisture from the air passing thru it, usually descant is your most economical but you will have to dry the descant as required ( in an oven low heat)
and always remove the water droplets before drying (separator first then dryer) or you will be putting your descant in an oven on a very regular basis
generally speaking if you need air for air tools separators are all that is needed but other applications say painting you may want dry air
brand names do not always mean quality they all sell to a price point but you will need to scale for the volume you may be using

 

[slow-poke]

the cooler the air the better you will separate water, also if you need dry air you will need an air dryer two different animals
the separator is designed to create a turbulence so that water droplets will be left behind only
a drier will remove moisture from the air passing thru it, usually descant is your most economical but you will have to dry the descant as required ( in an oven low heat)
and always remove the water droplets before drying (separator first then dryer) or you will be putting your descant in an oven on a very regular basis
generally speaking if you need air for air tools separators are all that is needed but other applications say painting you may want dry air
brand names do not always mean quality they all sell to a price point but you will need to scale for the volume you may be using

Just trying to minimize water in the tank

 

[wharris1]

Just trying to minimize water in the tank

separate at coolest point before tank

 

[Susquatch]

separate at coolest point before tank

Somebody understands relative humidity and dew point condensation......

Good advice.

The problem of course is that the tank itself is often the coolest part of the system. Depending on the ambient temperature, pressure, and humidity, it may not be possible to eliminate water condensing in the tank. That's why tanks need to be drained regularly.

 

[Ironman]

I have seen a very effective and inexpensive water condenser made from a furnace AC unit. Inside the furnace housing is a dual radiator setup with two radiators positioned as a tent in the furnace output side. The tubing size is 7/16 in the one I saw. He had mounted one side of the A so the air from the flywheel fan blades pulled air across the AC evaporator fins before it was pushed over the compressor. The evaporator was mounted so it would freely drain into a reservoir.
The hot air entered at the top and the discharge at the bottom was sent to the tank.

 

[Janger]

https://www.amazon.ca/Campbell-Hausfeld-Cleaner-Dryer-PA208503AV/dp/B0009KN9T0

This works and has reasonable quality, the price sure has gone up. Replace the desiccant with non-toxic desiccant. The blue beads are cobalt, toxic, and yellow orange beads, silica gel, are not toxic or less so anyway. I keep two sets of desiccant on hand, when the one is wet, I put in the other and then dry the desiccant in the shop toaster oven 250F for 30 min.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01I5Y2DG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1