Wanted: JT33 wedge set

[TorontoBuilder]

I need to disassemble my drill press so I can sand blast it in preparation for fresh paint, and to install a keyless chuck.

Sadly, the knurled nut and wedge that originally came with the DP when my grandfather bought it have long since disappeared. I'm surprised that the nut disappeared since it was installed above the chuck.

Anyway, I need a JT33 wedge set, even to just borrow one so I can remove the chuck and pull the spindle. Anyone between Toronto and Guelph got a set?

 

[ChazzC]

Amazon has a couple of options; the (somewhat crappy) HHIP version would probably cost less than the drive to borrow a set:

 

[Susquatch]

Anyway, I need a JT33 wedge set, even to just borrow one so I can remove the chuck and pull the spindle. Anyone between Toronto and Guelph got a set?

It just so happens that my drill press has a JT33C chuck on it.

I've re-read your post several times and can't be sure that the integral collar is actually gone. Mine has a knurled collar AND A NUT. To remove the chuck, you back off on the nut with a hook spanner or a hammer and drift. Usually, the chuck will pop loose. If not, a few raps with a small hammer and it will come loose. Then you finish unthreading the nut and the chuck will come off.

I'm not sure anybody makes a keyless chuck to fit that collared system. I wouldn't give it up just to get a keyless chuck.

I don't know if a chuck that was missing the collar could be removed with wedges as there is nothing to wedge against except the spindle housing and I don't think it's a good idea to wedge against that. But even so, the spindle threads for the nut should still be visible above the chuck. If so, you could try making a nut to fit it, then split the nut in half and then add clamping screws so you can put it on and then tighten the screws such that the collar can still be turned to remove the chuck. A very rough fit should be good enough. It just needs to rough fit the threads.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

Mine has just a nut according to the manual. I know it is t there because I see only threads.

I'll figure something out for removal... I thought accusize has a precision chuck the furs jt33.

I will turn a new k urled nut for sure anyway

 

[Dan Dubeau]

I made some from from the tapered flanges from c channel scraps. It was a pretty easy and quick solution. Drill a hole, cut the slot with a zip wheel. Just giving you options/ideas instead of buying.

 

[Susquatch]

I will turn a new k urled nut for sure anyway

I prefer slots (dogs) to knurling - too much torque required. But knurling with dogs would be great!

Why not make a bigger one now, split it in half along the circumference to make two, keeping one for the final result, then the other one split lengthwise to clamp on the existing stuck chuck and then turn it loose! Easy peasy and hardly any extra work.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

I prefer slots (dogs) to knurling - too much torque required. But knurling with dogs would be great!

Why not make a bigger one now, split it in half along the circumference to make two, keeping one for the final result, then the other one split lengthwise to clamp on the existing stuck chuck and then turn it loose! Easy peasy and hardly any extra work.

I really like this solution.

Now I have to go over to brother's one day this week to machine one big nut to split.

I tried to tap this off... not smart. I had the spindle collar slide off a bit as evidenced by the gap I created between the quill and the thrust washer. Always happens when I try to cheat.

 

[Birkhoff]

Or go one further and make the split threaded nut/collar and then use wedges -- that way might be kinder to the threads and you don't want to mess those up. A couple of hose clamps on the split collar will do it.

 

[PeterT]

I haven't seen an assembly like that but its not like I have a lot of familiarity anyways. You're saying there used to be a threaded collar now missing (red outline) & that would allow you to get wedges between it & chuck top (green outline)? What does the upper collar do - looks like its threaded as well?

 

[TorontoBuilder]

I haven't seen an assembly like that but its not like I have a lot of familiarity anyways. You're saying there used to be a threaded collar now missing (red outline) & that would allow you to get wedges between it & chuck top (green outline)? What does the upper collar do - looks like its threaded as well?

Correct, where you have shown the red outline there is supposed to be a knurled collar called a thrust collar nut. To remove the chuck the user would insert the a single chuck release wedge between the chuck, and the thrust collar nut and then turn the nut so that it bore again the chuck and pushed it off the taper.

The collar above the spot where the thrust collar nut goes is the lower spindle collar. The upper and lower spindle collars fix the spindle at the correct level in the quill assembly. They're both threaded as well.

I did try to turn the upper collar off and onto the lower thread, but something was preventing it from doing so easily. I suspect the set screw. Ill try that again when I go to disassemble the drill later today

 

[Susquatch]

You're saying there used to be a threaded collar now missing (red outline) & that would allow you to get wedges between it & chuck top (green outline)?

There are a few differences on mine. The nut on mine is attached to the chuck via a groove and ring. Normally, they don't come apart and you buy them as one part. When you tighten the collar, it pulls the chuck tight onto the taper with it. When you want to remove the chuck, you loosen the nut until it presses down on the chuck and then you give the chuck a light tap with a Mallet and it pops off.

Since TB's collar nut is missing, I am proposing a split nut instead - just so you can get it on. The split nut is installed on the thread, connected together, and then the nut is tightened against the chuck to apply downward pressure so that a Mallet rap will remove it.

I don't know how to use such a nut to tighten the taper. But I do know that a 33 taper isn't very good at handling side loads.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

I finally found a decent reference for what the thrust collar nut is supposed to look like.

Nice and deep.

 

[whydontu]

It’s a long shot, but I have seen this before and it really effed up my day. Double-check that there’s not a left-hand thread flathead screw retaining the chuck onto the arbor. Just like on a power drill. Please don’t ask how I found out this is sometimes used, and how much it cost to fix.

 

[Susquatch]

Here is what mine looks like:



Here is another varient I found:

 

[TorontoBuilder]

It’s a long shot, but I have seen this before and it really effed up my day. Double-check that there’s not a left-hand thread flathead screw retaining the chuck onto the arbor. Just like on a power drill. Please don’t ask how I found out this is sometimes used, and how much it cost to fix.

Thanks for the suggestion, but upon inspection it looks like there is not.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

Here is what mine looks like:

View attachment 54299

Here is another varient I found:

View attachment 54300

I like your style.

I'm shocked they'd make a smooth one.

 

[Susquatch]

Mine was old when I got it 50 years ago. The smooth one takes a pin style claw wrench. They all, work the same though. The problem with yours is its not attached to the chuck, and more importantly, it's totally missing!

 

[TorontoBuilder]

Mine was old when I got it 50 years ago. The smooth one takes a pin style claw wrench. They all, work the same though. The problem with yours is its not attached to the chuck, and more importantly, it's totally missing!

I'm going to make one to match this even if I dont keep that chuck.