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Standard Modern 10"? or 12"? Lathe GC Auction Ottawa

YotaBota

Mike
Premium Member
The "Wagner" part of this is the motor.
FS2410856.JPEG
 
It is a 12" - easiest to see by the spacer on the tailstock - and the tailstock is there!

Pro's: 12" (basically 13" to the ways)
Nothing looks broken
Could be a quality lathe
Con's: 575 volt 3 phase - motor can be changed out easy enough but added cost
It is an older unit (Like my 10") has the old style cast iron base - but it has a base
No tooling??
Min bid is $1000 - that sucks - would be nice to start maybe $500 and get a great deal if under $1000
 
Do these happen to have hardened bedways? I've half heartedly searched in the past, but never found an answer......
 
No, it may have been an option? The lathe ways that I have and a couple worked on are not hardened. Also from my endeavors into keeping them alive, I have found that "typically" the major wear on the ways is more apparent and has more affect on the performance is UNDER the ways, not the top side where you slide along the apron and tailstock.

Essentially a groove gets formed at the rear saddle gib location and the front apron gib location - each of these places has adjustments that can take out play. If the adjustments do not happen then over time wear allows the saddle to lift and move on the ways. You can adjust for this later on but it may take some stoning to reduce the issues.
 
No, it may have been an option? The lathe ways that I have and a couple worked on are not hardened. Also from my endeavors into keeping them alive, I have found that "typically" the major wear on the ways is more apparent and has more affect on the performance is UNDER the ways, not the top side where you slide along the apron and tailstock.

Essentially a groove gets formed at the rear saddle gib location and the front apron gib location - each of these places has adjustments that can take out play. If the adjustments do not happen then over time wear allows the saddle to lift and move on the ways. You can adjust for this later on but it may take some stoning to reduce the issues.
Excellent... Thanks for the reply. I'm still thinking that one of these would be a pretty good upgrade from my South Bends.....
 
I was hoping our resident expert would verify the size.
@Brent H - is this the 12x30? It seems the only one that looks right by the manuals.
I didn't see any indication of which department it is from, that could have given some idea as to its use.
 
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What south bend do you have? I am getting better at making all the parts for Utilathes - LOL
I have two usable 10k's and I think three parts machines as well as a 9" that I am planning to restore, as it's from the 30's and in really good condition. I also have a 1929 13" x 6ft bed that is in nice shape for it's age. All the little ones have 42" beds, two of which are for underdrives, which sadly I don't have. Would have been a nice space saver....... I'm still trying to figure out how I allowed so many of them to follow me home, thankfully I have only encountered two shapers in my journeys.....:oops::rolleyes:
 
@140mower - that is awesome! I learned to lathe (if that is what you could call it?) on a Southbend - super great lathes. They took many a student and still kept running!!

My opinion only:


Great Lathes "should haves" for somewhat serious Hobby use :

Quick change Gear box - no messing with gear changes unless converting to metric and gives better feed/speed control.

Decent chuck speed (like 50 rpm or less to infinity) - Important to run a variety of tooling - carbide likes speed and feed and load- May be achieved on older lathes with VFD etc

Mass: Get one that is not on a diet - mass absorbs vibration, chatter etc It allows for a more "ridged" set up - this may not permit a lathe to be "basemented" or "apartmentated" you have to be reasonable.

Quality construction: Good bearings, nice fits, quality components and fixtures - plastic and such are ok for handle balls or guards but should not really be involved in gearing or parts that need to last and maintain precision.

Size does not matter
- (this is funny Shite) but a good 7 to 12 inch will satisfy any lathe operator (wink wink) if it is used within its limitations and is built well. The mini lathes I cannot discuss as I do not have one and I do not have a need....HAHA

Precision: First off, if the lathe is pooched, ways disgusting, dings, dents, a right POS well, that is not the lathe we are discussing. Even so we will probably have some umms and ahhs here but...once the lathe is in fine working order, the precision comes down to YOU. Me not caring about being offensive: Can you see? Like read the fine gauges and dials??? ....well if you are like me, it could be add a magnifying glass or other lens to improve things- take your time - get to know your lathe and what happens at a 0.005 cut compared to a 0.040 cut - can the lathe handle that?, deflection, bogging etc...Operate your lathe at its best chance to give you success.

Ultimate usage: what are you thinking to make, fix etc? if you are doing pens, watches etc - really fine precise stuff, well, that will take a specific machine. If you are just into general fix repair and carry on and perhaps do some cool stull, well a 7 to 12 x 20 or 30 may be right in your wheel house! The bigger lathes are just that - bigger and longer - perhaps outside the scope of a "typical" hobby/repair person. Example: We had a 16 x 80 Kingston lathe on the ship. It could hold (with the chuck) a 6 foot shaft between centers - massive! but we didn't use anything past about 24" and some neglectful arses destroyed the bearings and it was expensive to repair. Replaced with a 13" x 24 lathe and never missed the length of the old one.

So Bottom line after rambling on:

With everything working on a 10 or 12" Utilathe you will be pleased. It will check most or all of the boxes I posted above. Chuck speed at 1500 RPM may max out a few things , but it depends on the application and diameter of the piece. The Utilathe is pretty solid - coming it at about 1000 plus pounds. The D1-3 (10/12) or D1-4 (11/13") spindle allows for a great variety of chucks.

The compound is solid and adept to taking an AXA (10") or AXB (12") for tooling. This size is pretty decent but do expect to face knurl with any great success. Clamp type. Surfacing cuts I have done is easy at 0.050" plus

Tailstock is a standard MT2 taper. For the 12" I might bore that out to an MT3?? and put a 1 HP motor on it. @architect has an 11" and that would be the ideal machine as it has the 36" bed and a great MT3 tailstock, robust construction (some improvements) etc.

Not even sure what I am on about (LOL) but there are a bunch of super great small lathes.
 
@140mower - that is awesome! I learned to lathe (if that is what you could call it?) on a Southbend - super great lathes. They took many a student and still kept running!!

My opinion only:

Great Lathes "should haves" for somewhat serious Hobby use :

Quick change Gear box - no messing with gear changes unless converting to metric and gives better feed/speed control.

Decent chuck speed (like 50 rpm or less to infinity) - Important to run a variety of tooling - carbide likes speed and feed and load- May be achieved on older lathes with VFD etc

Mass: Get one that is not on a diet - mass absorbs vibration, chatter etc It allows for a more "ridged" set up - this may not permit a lathe to be "basemented" or "apartmentated" you have to be reasonable.

Quality construction: Good bearings, nice fits, quality components and fixtures - plastic and such are ok for handle balls or guards but should not really be involved in gearing or parts that need to last and maintain precision.

Size does not matter - (this is funny Shite) but a good 7 to 12 inch will satisfy any lathe operator (wink wink) if it is used within its limitations and is built well. The mini lathes I cannot discuss as I do not have one and I do not have a need....HAHA

Precision: First off, if the lathe is pooched, ways disgusting, dings, dents, a right POS well, that is not the lathe we are discussing. Even so we will probably have some umms and ahhs here but...once the lathe is in fine working order, the precision comes down to YOU. Me not caring about being offensive: Can you see? Like read the fine gauges and dials??? ....well if you are like me, it could be add a magnifying glass or other lens to improve things- take your time - get to know your lathe and what happens at a 0.005 cut compared to a 0.040 cut - can the lathe handle that?, deflection, bogging etc...Operate your lathe at its best chance to give you success.

Ultimate usage: what are you thinking to make, fix etc? if you are doing pens, watches etc - really fine precise stuff, well, that will take a specific machine. If you are just into general fix repair and carry on and perhaps do some cool stull, well a 7 to 12 x 20 or 30 may be right in your wheel house! The bigger lathes are just that - bigger and longer - perhaps outside the scope of a "typical" hobby/repair person. Example: We had a 16 x 80 Kingston lathe on the ship. It could hold (with the chuck) a 6 foot shaft between centers - massive! but we didn't use anything past about 24" and some neglectful arses destroyed the bearings and it was expensive to repair. Replaced with a 13" x 24 lathe and never missed the length of the old one.

So Bottom line after rambling on:

With everything working on a 10 or 12" Utilathe you will be pleased. It will check most or all of the boxes I posted above. Chuck speed at 1500 RPM may max out a few things , but it depends on the application and diameter of the piece. The Utilathe is pretty solid - coming it at about 1000 plus pounds. The D1-3 (10/12) or D1-4 (11/13") spindle allows for a great variety of chucks.

The compound is solid and adept to taking an AXA (10") or AXB (12") for tooling. This size is pretty decent but do expect to face knurl with any great success. Clamp type. Surfacing cuts I have done is easy at 0.050" plus

Tailstock is a standard MT2 taper. For the 12" I might bore that out to an MT3?? and put a 1 HP motor on it. @architect has an 11" and that would be the ideal machine as it has the 36" bed and a great MT3 tailstock, robust construction (some improvements) etc.

Not even sure what I am on about (LOL) but there are a bunch of super great small lathes.

What a great post @Brent H . Full of wisdom even for those not interested in a Utilathe. I just bookmarked it so I can send a link to others in future.

I'd quibble on the quick change. I enjoy swapping gears for threading. Just setup for it with all the required tools handy. It's no big deal.
 
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