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SM1334 at Auction in Hamilton.

That is a big ass stop button! And I thought Craig’s was big ( mind you I bought one just like it )
 
Tom O said:
That is a big ass stop button! And I thought Craig’s was big ( mind you I bought one just like it )
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Can't say I've used that paddle switch as intended. Usually your hand is within close proximity of some other switch when you have an oooooppssss. Sunday I stalled my 3J out on the saddle. 3.5" piece extended the jaws out enough to contact it. Daaaaa:rolleyes:

BTB - Do you think that STOP thing in the auction listing is actually a switch? I thought it was a sign?
 
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Tom O said:
I thought that too then saw the wire going into the door although I may have put 2 and 2 together and got 22.
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Ahhh… the wire! That's a bit of a giveaway isn't it. Switch it is, a BIG one too LOL.
 
The "Stop" power disconnects were sold by Woodworking company General/General International and others for a while. Tablesaws in shop classes were required to have them before the Sawstop Insurance Horde took over.

When using a tablesaw, I found them quite handy as they were often positioned where one could tap it with your knee or a hip to stop the saw quickly. That is a HUGE version of the stop buttons I've seen however.
 
calgaryguy said:
The "Stop" power disconnects were sold by Woodworking company General/General International and others for a while. Tablesaws in shop classes were required to have them before the Sawstop Insurance Horde took over.

When using a tablesaw, I found them quite handy as they were often positioned where one could tap it with your knee or a hip to stop the saw quickly. That is a HUGE version of the stop buttons I've seen however.
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Apparently the HS shops have table saws now that sense moisture before you can lob off a finger. One shot and expensive to replace I've heard. Local shop teacher agreed to split some lathe for me but wouldn't touch it until it had sat inside for a couple of days.
 
Sawstop is the company that has the proprietary tech that does this. They make a very nice cabinet saw, but pricetag is redonkulous.

The 'brake cartridge' isn't that expensive, < $100 CDn IIRC. It can, but not always, wreck the blade at the same time, so add that to the cost.

Sawstop is great technology, but jointers are still the most dangerous tool in a woodshop IMO. You might lose a finger or two with a saw in a bad accident, but jointers make hamburger. ;|
 
The Saw Stop guy refused to allow other companies to use the "patented" tech for the stop and then set about to make it mandatory for all saws to have the Saw Stop feature on board. He patented some other ideas as well to make it impossible for other companies to make a saw that would comply. Very sneaky and greedy. Not many home table saw buyers are going to shell out $1000 for a small portable saw. The blade destruction along with the Saw Stop cartridge can run you $100 to $200. They had issues with moisture in the wood and with guys running a piece of aluminum through the saw with out thinking about the stop. Bang ...$200

I can see the install on a production line where insurance and worker safety come into play but when you like to live on the edge....there is a cost to safety that may not be affordable
 
Not trying to hijack this SawStop thread,,lol:D, but did anyone see what the lathe sold for? Last I saw it was around $875ish.
 
I bought a Sawstop several years ago and justified the price because of the safety feature.
I went blind in my right eye 10 years ago so depth perception is a thing of the past. Doesn't bother much in everyday life but you don't want to watch me hammer a nail, lol.
The saw was definitely pricey but worth it as I don't have any interest in being the half blind guy with a hook as well.
A bonus is that it is an exceptionally well built saw. My neighbor is a semi-pro woodworker and when he tried mine he promptly bought one of the 3 phase 7.5 hp ones.
My routers scare me the most, maybe because of the noise but I'm probably in the most danger with the bandsaw. Given that they use them to cut meat makes me cringe whenever it whisks through a piece of wood.
 
Doggggboy said:
I bought a Sawstop several years ago and justified the price because of the safety feature.
I went blind in my right eye 10 years ago so depth perception is a thing of the past. Doesn't bother much in everyday life but you don't want to watch me hammer a nail, lol.
The saw was definitely pricey but worth it as I don't have any interest in being the half blind guy with a hook as well.
A bonus is that it is an exceptionally well built saw. My neighbor is a semi-pro woodworker and when he tried mine he promptly bought one of the 3 phase 7.5 hp ones.
My routers scare me the most, maybe because of the noise but I'm probably in the most danger with the bandsaw. Given that they use them to cut meat makes me cringe whenever it whisks through a piece of wood.
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Its a nice saw for sure!
 
There are reviews of the stop saw online. It is average saw in the "pro" category and below average for the price.

You can get smaller saws and cheaper in homeowner / contractor grade with flesh sensing tech -

As well as pro stuff.

Got dad one of these ex school saws for like 400 CAD few years back. Very heavy cast construction, very precise. Placed 3hp motor on them and it cuts anything you throw at it. For larger cabinet making you can always get bigger saws at auction for about 1/10 of original price. Heck one uber large saw with CNC control that was like 5000 lbs and could cut like 10 cabinets at once or something sold for like $150 CAD... new probably 150k... and it was just few years old.
 
On the sawstop, you need a different brake piece for a dado blade. I have never used a sawstop, they look nice, but out of my price range. I have also heard that setting the brake can be a pain as there is a set distance required between the blade and the brake. If you don't have it right the saw won't start.
 
Hruul said:
On the sawstop, you need a different brake piece for a dado blade. I have never used a sawstop, they look nice, but out of my price range. I have also heard that setting the brake can be a pain as there is a set distance required between the blade and the brake. If you don't have it right the saw won't start.
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Nah, it's probably easier than picking the right shims for the dado stack.
Unless you're a daredevil and still using a wobbler:) (Wobblers won't work in a Sawstop anyway)
No regrets buying mine.
 
Ive owned a number of General 350 and Rockwell/Delta Unisaws. All were superb machines once setup for accuracy. Arbor runout being probably teh biggest factor in a smooth cutting saw.
 
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