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Looking for metal worker near Nanaimo

Keiran_dj

Brand New Member
I’m in the process of replacing my sprockets and chain on my Honda xr650L and the upgraded front one I purchased is still about 1mm too thick. Wondering if anyone is nearby with a lathe and could shave it down a hair and bevel the edge. Thanks
 

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If it is the right side that needs to be shaved off and if it is hard, like I expect it would be, I would look for a shop with a surface grinder that has a magnetic chuck. Depending on the tooth spacing it may be difficult to hold the sprocket in a lathe chuck.
 
Agreed..... If it comes to making an arbour and setting up a tool post grinder, you are definitely getting out of the case of beer price range..... ie, roughly the price of the sprocket....
Yeh, but I'd just press a button on my mag chuck controller and make a few passes with the surface grinder, badda bing, badda boom.
 
Yeh, but I'd just press a button on my mag chuck controller and make a few passes with the surface grinder, badda bing, badda boom.

A surface grinder was my first thought too. Easy peasy to a few tenths. One beer would more than cover it.

Wondering if anyone is nearby with a lathe and could shave it down a hair and bevel the edge.

If you run out of options nearby, and are willing to cover postage here and back, I'm sure we can fix you up.
 
Something to be aware either way depending on how much removal & where.
If reducing the sprocket side, I'm pretty certain the tooth section is a defined, size-specific curve meant to operate within a specific roller chain size. Cutting/grinding off a flat on one side will yield a different 'non-optimal' shape.
If reducing the hub side, the splines have a lead in chamfer (easy to do on a lathe but more difficult to mount in a chuck without a fixture). Also now the holes will be shallower.

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Yeh, but I'd just press a button on my mag chuck controller and make a few passes with the surface grinder, badda bing, badda boom.
Still have to possibly work around that shoulder and then chamfer the edges of each tooth. Then the next question becomes, fully hardened or case hardened, if only case, then you are definitely better off getting a new one...... If not hard, the same steps need to be taken as to champhers etc.
This comes from my only experience with grinders being, die, angle and bench, so I am sure that I am missing something that makes life easier than I see it......
 
Maybe I misread the first post. I thought he just needed 1mm taken off the hub. I don't see how that affects the tooth profile.

Now if he wants 1mm taken off the tooth profile, then that is a whole nuther kettle of fish! If so, then I'm on the page of just buying a new gear.
 
Maybe I misread the first post. I thought he just needed 1mm taken off the hub. I don't see how that affects the tooth profile.

Now if he wants 1mm taken off the tooth profile, then that is a whole nuther kettle of fish! If so, then I'm on the page of just buying a new gear.
You might be right...... But in typical homeshop fashion, how could we possibly make it easy?:rolleyes:
 
I think the OP has moved on. He hasn’t provided clarification to any questions.
And; I have an XR650L. I’ve never heard of a front sprocket that was too wide. The OEM sprockets are notoriously too narrow and they wobble, eventually ruining the splines on the output shaft, which means a full tear down to replace the shaft. It’s a fairly common (short term) “fix” to weld the new sprocket on…
There are sprockets available (KKBike SuperPinion) that offer a much wider contact and improve the method of securing the sprocket.



I see there’s a Chinese copy of the SuperPinion available now too.
 
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