larger print example ER collet rack

[PeterT]

So I drew up an ER16 collet rack to fit a specific cardboard storage box size (after first printing a smaller 4-hole test block which I am happy with).

Its occupying some real estate on my A1 table. Total time ~7 hours. I'm sure the 'creature' printers are chuckling & calling me a WUS right now LOL

but this assumes default infill

Thus far I have found (PLA) prints around this thickness to be amazingly rigid for the purpose. What do you think, is this when people reduce infill to speed up time & reduce material? Or am I risking something else like potential lift or warp? Thus far my stuff has been smallish & actually impressed with what is coming off the printer.

 

[Doggggboy]

If the standard infill is 15% and working well for you I'd stick with it. Changing it 10% or so won't save much time or filament even on a 7 hour print.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

If the standard infill is 15% and working well for you I'd stick with it. Changing it 10% or so won't save much time or filament even on a 7 hour print.

+1

But you could consider alternate fill patterns for greater compression strength such as cubic. Times should not change but better protection for thin walled thin fill prints

 

[David]

My infill of choice is gyroid.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

My infill of choice is gyroid.

another good one

 

[gerritv]

If you look at the sliced details, the time is almost all in the top, bottom and perimeters. I would slice this 2 layers top and bottom and 2 perimeters max. There is no load in thin so no need to do more. And as stated, infill won't change print time much, but will provide support to the top and bottom layers.

 

[PeterT]

I realized I inadvertently made it 25mm thick but it only needs to be 20mm so that reduced print time to ~6.x hours with default settings. Fits one of my standardized storage boxes just fine. But now I'm kind of having a DUH moment, wondering why I even made 24 holes when I probably have the range pretty much covered. I probably could fit the collets in one half & tooling in the other. Anyway the relatively simple tapered depression shape to hold the collet seems to hold them securely enough. Its not like a case where you could tip it upside down. But its better than the Ziplock & shoebox routine.

 

[Susquatch]

But its better than the Ziplock & shoebox routine.

I can't tell. Do the holes have a taper to match the collet or is just a straight hole? If so, what size?

 

[TorontoBuilder]

I can't tell. Do the holes have a taper to match the collet or is just a straight hole? If so, what size?

tapered

 

[PeterT]

yes, 16mm dia with 8-deg side angle taper, 17mm depth, solid bottom. Collet fit like so. I didn't really realize it before but large ID collets are actually shorter in length compared to small ID. At least the ones I have. They run out of wall thickness on the tool end.

I'm also looking at my AliExpress specials with a bit more discriminating eye. They are a progressive series, which I'm quite sure said 0.5mm increment, AA grade tolerance. But I have some bastards in there that look different. Now maybe I bought a set & added some other sizes either side of range, I cant recall. Note to self: get in the habit of fully examining & testing every single part immediately upon order vs months after the fact when its too late to do much about it. They weren't a lot of money but there is no recourse now if I was missing a size.

 

[Susquatch]

Thanks @TorontoBuilder & @PeterT. Not really what I wanted to hear. Much harder for me to cut tapered holes in a block of wood...... But maybe with wood I don't need to.

 

[PeterT]

My original plywood plate idea was exactly that. Just an array of holes. It will support the collets. If the plate is quite thick maybe the collet might rest at a slightly cocked angle vs ar thin material. That probably why a lot of collet trays are stamped steel.

But there are these too which are thicker. Mind you maybe the R8 collets hang better on their lip. they have more shank body below so lower COG