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Harrison 13x40 toolroom lathe, $1700, Chatham, ON

Ya, nice paint job...... LOL. Gotta wonder what he paid for it. I think that's my neighbourhood reseller. He doesn't know much about using them. He just buys and sells. So I think I'll go look at it. If anyone is interested, send me a PM. If it's as nice as it seems, I might even make him an offer and then resell myself.
 
This. The guy that wanted a small 10" lathe. if he has the room, he can buy this and spend the other 5000$ he'd have spent on a PM, or BB lathe on tooling and any enhancements that are necessary.
 
I hope he didn't pay too much for the paint job. If you look at the close ups of the pictures with the spindle speeds and threading plate you can see drips, sags and runs. Didn't even wipe it off the plates where it ran. I'm guessing he used a 3" brush. He also painted the inside sides of the ways with overspray. So no masking tape either.

And pictures on the internet always look better than in person.
 
Apparently, I'm second in line to see it.

Same old same old shtick. Drowning in calls. Got it free sitting at a school. Doesn't know how to use it. Put lipstick on it to sell.

When I told him I'd been there twice looking at mills for friends, he remembered me and opened up a bit. Says the seals leak, but it hasn't been abused. If the guy going first doesn't buy it, I'll be the judge of that..... LOL!
 
Prolly a nice lathe for someone willing to do some work. Leade screw and ways look good but I didn't do any measurements cuz it has some other major problems. Too much work for me at this point in my life.

No steady or follow rest but it does have a tailstock.

Only two chucks - a 3 jaw and a face plate. They are screw on. The big kind.

Toolroom lathe is the wrong term. Not nearly that good of a lathe.

The two selector handles for the threading gear box feel like teeth are worn internally and the engagement index slots are broken. The main threading fork selector feels ok.

Oil leaks on fresh paint are obvious. The saddle gears are worn. The feed/ cross feed fork is hard to move and makes a racket if you don't get it right.

Oil nipples are all painted shut.

Lead screw nose on the saddle is cracked and almost broken off. Don't think it's needed so I'd just remove it.

Brake Clutch is not working properly.

Motor feels great. A VFD would make it awesome.

Backlash
40 thou on leadscrew
At chuck and at tailstock.
20 thou on compound.
30 thou on cross-slide.
Didn't measure tailstock.

He says he painted it cuz it was ugly. He did a lousy job. Looks good from a distance though.

Didn't do any alignment checks. Too much time for something I'm not gunna buy.

He said he would take 1500 cash.
 
I think he'd have been better served to leave it ugly, at least he didn't paint the ways. lol

Susquatch said:
Only two chucks - a 3 jaw and a face plate. They are screw on. The big kind.
Click to expand...
IIRC the spindle nose is a tapered L0 style that has a big locking ring on it. I guess that does make them a screw on, sorta.
 
YotaBota said:
I think he'd have been better served to leave it ugly, at least he didn't paint the ways. lol
Click to expand...

Actually he did. Sorta. There is overspray on the ways in several spots.


YotaBota said:
IIRC the spindle nose is a tapered L0 style that has a big locking ring on it. I guess that does make them a screw on, sorta.
Click to expand...

Yes. That's exactly what it is. I just couldn't remember the name. Never was any good at remembering names and numbers.
 
Dabbler said:
So it is lipstick on a pig....

For the right buyer (hobby machine restorer) it might be a good get at 1500$ - L0 chucks in reasonable condition go for 400$ US, so there's about 1K$ risk on something that runs, if barely.
Click to expand...

Ya, I slept on it and agree with your sentiment. It's lipstick on a pig. At a minimum, it needs a 4jaw. So it's a $2000 machine that has a variety of potentially major problems.

Although it is usable as is, I wouldn't call it a good gamble.

On the other hand, anyone who likes to rebuild lathes could turn it into a really nice machine made in England. Some folks will pay just for that.

It just isn't the smoking hot machine it looked like it might be based on the Kijiji ad.
 
buckbrush said:
Those usually have a 2 speed motor, so if using a VFD, it has to be programmed for one speed or the other
Click to expand...

I didn't see or sense anything other than a single speed motor. Every gear change was a gear change and the motor sound itself didn't change through all 9 speeds.

But you raise an interesting question to ponder. I've never really thought about how a VFD and a two speed motor might work together.

Assuming the 2spd control is done separate to the 3ph power input, and also assuming that the two spd functionality is only allowed when the lathe is "OFF", I can't see any good reason why it wouldn't work quite normally. These assumptions might need interlocks to enforce them.

Most VFDs don't like switches between them and the motor. So for those 2spd motors that rewire the 3ph input, I'd use an interlock.

Besides that, if it is necessary as you suggest, one could always connect the VFD to the high speed winding for that kind of motor, disable/disconnect the low speed wiring of the motor, and then lower the drive frequency via the VFD to achieve low speeds. Certainly not a show stopper.

In fact, when you throw in the other advantages of a VFD (variable speed, smoothness, programmable accel/decell, braking, low speed torque, etc) its a total no brainer to add one.
 
My Emco v13 lathe has a 2 speed motor. The motor has 2 sets of windings. I wired the vfd to the low speed windings and it works great at all motor speeds.
 
Darren said:
My Emco v13 lathe has a 2 speed motor. The motor has 2 sets of windings. I wired the vfd to the low speed windings and it works great at all motor speeds.
Click to expand...

If I understand, you have two different sets of 3ph input wiring.

I confess I'm surprised that you chose to run the motor on the low speed winding. I would have guessed it's a lot easier to get low speed on the high speed winding by reducing the frequency of the VFD output, than it is to get high speed on the low speed windings by increasing the frequency. Especially on a motor already designed to adequately cool the motor when running at low speeds.
 
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