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DRILL DOCTOR 750X BIT SHARPENER, $75, Red Deer, AB

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I just happened to watch a video that showed that these are really just crap.

He suggested this one as way better although it's also way more money.

And then there is one of these which I believe also does end mills.

If one is going to spend a few hundred at what point does it become worthwhile to spend $1000?
 
IMO they aren't crap, he has a badly manufactured one as clearly shown when he hacked the thing with a c-clamp. For one thing he didn't actually finish grinding the primary before heading to the split point. And for 135dg you need to offset the depth setting angle. An underwhelmingly unimpressive video.

As for sharpening by hand, if you want precision holes you need a proper setup. If you are just drilling random holes that just need to be holes, then by all means sharpen by hand. Let me know how you do that with 1/8 or smaller drills :-) Do you measure the resulting hole for roundness and dimension? If you are off centre on the point, it won't drill an accurate hole, not many people can see 0.001"

I use mine to regrind dull drills into 135 split points, works a treat once you learn how to use it and have a bit of patience while grinding. Resulting drills cut on size and with a lot less pressure with added bonus of usually not needing a spot drill in advance.
 
I have Drill Doctor 750X like the one in the original post and it works great. That video is of a Drill Doctor 500 which is not the same as a 750X. The video has been making the rounds and taken quite a beating for its ham-fisted approach.
 
gerritv said:
As for sharpening by hand, if you want precision holes you need a proper setup. If you are just drilling random holes that just need to be holes, then by all means sharpen by hand. Let me know how you do that with 1/8 or smaller drills :) Do you measure the resulting hole for roundness and dimension? If you are off centre on the point, it won't drill an accurate hole, not many people can see 0.001
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I wouldn't bother trying to sharpen drills any smaller than 1/4 inch by hand, not worth the time or effort, 1/2 inch and larger are a lot more expensive and not difficult to sharpen. Way back in the dark ages i took a course on machine shop, first thing we made was a drill gauge. The instructor said if you couldn't sharpen a drill bit then no drill press, same as learning to sharpen lathe bits.
On the farm there is very little need to drill holes to 0.001 accuracy, but in industry where that kind of accuracy is needed i would presume a decent grinder would be at hand. The drill doctor and vevor unit are very capable and i have looked at them several times, the eyesight needs help as i get older, very useful for hobby shops and one man repair shops. I still maintain that you should be able to do some manual work and know why the angles are the way they are.
 
Same video, not sure what the reprise was. For 135 you have to use one notch to left of centre when you align the bit (in the length adjuster) which in the first segment he doesn't do. Can't tell what he did with the 135 drill a bit later on but guessing from his attitude I doubt it. Which is directly why the relief grind is wrong. I too have made this mistake and once corrected works just fine for 135deg tips. It of course helps to read the manual :-)
I think this guy is a waste of time for anything precise, like grinding drills.
 
gerritv said:
Same video, not sure what the reprise was. For 135 you have to use one notch to left of centre when you align the bit (in the length adjuster) which in the first segment he doesn't do. Can't tell what he did with the 135 drill a bit later on but guessing from his attitude I doubt it. Which is directly why the relief grind is wrong. I too have made this mistake and once corrected works just fine for 135deg tips. It of course helps to read the manual :-)
I think this guy is a waste of time for anything precise, like grinding drills.
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Whoops my mistake. It just popped up in my feed.
 
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