Anvil 600.00 Canadian

[Tom O]

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[DavidR8]

I'm no anvilologist but that seems like a good deal.

 

[YYCHM]

Blackfalds, AB

 

[Ironman]

A Peter Wright anvil is a sought after tool. This one has had the rats gnawing in it and would need reconditioning but for 600 it is a good buy. I did not see a weight listed in the ad.

 

[Doggggboy]

Reading Anvil Weight Markings

How to determine your anvils weight via markings. Anvils are marked in a variety of methods but most English anvils were marked using the hundredweight system. American made anvils are marked in pounds. Anvils made in other places (including many Swedish anvils) are often marked in pounds. A few...

arcandhammer.com

 

[Model Citizen]

The weight would be in the 3 stamped numbers at the bottom where solid wrought is stamped In a circle.
i can’t make those numbers out.
my 90# (or 41kg anvil) has 0 3 5 stamped on it.
this is hundred weights.

 

[Tom Kitta]

Its 1 1 13

112 + 28 + 13 = 153

So around $4 per Lbs. A bit pricey. I paid under $2.5 per lbs for mine.

Edge looks very rounded everywhere so would need to rebuild - AFAIK - I am not a blacksmith but I know how to rebuild.

Then again, there was similar anvil - lighter on FB and it was for $900 (!!!).

 

[Crosche]

Not a bad price considering that it comes with a stand and a cut-off hardie. I would just clean it up with a flap disk and go to work.

 

[Ironman]

I would just clean it up with a flap disk and go to work.

You could say the same thing about a dirty micrometer, and it would clean it up. And it would still screw in and out and be generally worthless.
But if you understand how anvils are used or have ever been trained in blacksmithing, you would hear what Tom Kitta says. The 4 different radius on the edges are very important. Using a zip cutter on the horn is also not good.
I would start with building up the edges with a 55 Rockwell tool steel welding rod, and then mill the top surface on a milling machine and then create the radius edges. This would only be done after determining if the hardened surface still exists and the cut-off surface before the horn is soft.

 

[Crosche]

You could say the same thing about a dirty micrometer, and it would clean it up. And it would still screw in and out and be generally worthless.
But if you understand how anvils are used or have ever been trained in blacksmithing, you would hear what Tom Kitta says. The 4 different radius on the edges are very important. Using a zip cutter on the horn is also not good.
I would start with building up the edges with a 55 Rockwell tool steel welding rod, and then mill the top surface on a milling machine and then create the radius edges. This would only be done after determining if the hardened surface still exists and the cut-off surface before the horn is soft.

No, you couldn't say the same thing about a micrometer because it is a precision instrument whereas an anvil is not. I have produced decent work off of anvils in far worse shape. Additionally, having a large radius on the corners isn't a big deal and probably a boon for a novice because it prevents cold shuts and cracks from propagating
Just going at the anvil with some hard facing rod is as likely to cause more harm than good since it is two piece anvil, ie cast body with a high carbon plate fused to it. I have seen the results of people with good intentions and an arc welder and it's not pretty, but I have only been smithing for 25 years so I am sure there is a lot more to learn.

 

[Crosche]

Anyone looking to do a repair on an anvil may find this helpful: Anvil Welding Procedure

 

[Janger]

This Peter wright was my great grandfather’s. This one is used! I’d like to restore it someday. With me being a helper and someone who knows what they are doing.

 

[johnnielsen]

I have a large anvil that needs repair. I am going to rebuild it using the technique I saw used at Western Rock Bit on the in ground 5-8 ton bases for 100+ ton pneumatic drop forge hammers. Continuous preheat was applied. After grinding down to a clean/fresh surface, the welders laid a layer of '99 Ni Rod' followed by stainless steel, all done with stick welding. I didn't see how they finished the build up but I assume they finished off with a high nickel content alloy rod like what is used to weld 4140-4340 alloy steel. I will be using 309 SS rod for most of the buildup.

 

[Janger]

When you do that job John I hope I can attend. Will you attempt to heat treat the top after? I assume all the welding will take the hardness out and it would need to be restored? I’m not sure.

 

[Ironman]

John, I rebuilt a 280 lb anvil befor my shoulders failed, and and I had to give it up and sell everything. I used 309 SS and found it was too soft and would move under the hammer after a lengthy period. There is an underlay rod I think 5051? which is used to bed hardfacing rod on roll crushers. It may be better, it is a stainless looking material.
I am a fan of 309 for a pad when joining dis-similar metals like grader blade on mild steel. Ni-Rod is $6 per rod they charge here. I welded a 24" long crack in an engine block with Ni-Rod, it was a costly repair I'll say. I couldn't justify marking it up to the customer.

For the overly ambitious, here is an article on a do it yourself anvil.

 

[Dan Dubeau]

I have some torch marks on my big anvil that I debate about filling. The face is big enough to work around them, but they bug me. So far not enough to worry about, but at some point i'll take the plunge and grind them out, and weld them up. I've read a lot, and watched more videos on the process, and while it looks doable, it is pretty involved. I've got a bunch of underlay and hard facing rod here to do it.

 

[trevj]

A Peter Wright anvil is a sought after tool. This one has had the rats gnawing in it and would need reconditioning but for 600 it is a good buy. I did not see a weight listed in the ad.

A Peter Wright in good condition, is a sought after tool.

For the condition that one is in, it might be worth a risk at less than that, or it might be a waste of money entirely. Like if the same rats that knocked off the edges, managed to break loose any of the face plate to wrought iron welded surface.

My experience is that there are few around with the ambition to take on a re-face of an anvil, and even fewer of those, capable of a competent job, and NONE, that will earn as much as if they spent the time picking empty bottles and cans along the roadside!

I'd buy it for beer money, and take a chance on getting some use of it, but but I sure as hell would not consider a $600 purchase, with any expectation that it needed hours of slog work, plus a fair buck in welding rod or wire, and no guarantee of a useful and lively anvil at the end.

A fella has to understand the difference in buying a tool to use, as a Hobby, and buying a Tool that is to BE the Hobby!

 

[johnnielsen]

When you do that job John I hope I can attend. Will you attempt to heat treat the top after? I assume all the welding will take the hardness out and it would need to be restored? I’m not sure.

It might anneal the top as I can see that a separate harder plate about 1/2 " thick has been attached. The key to success is to ensure the anvil area adjacent to the weld does not rise drastically to a critical temperature because de-laminating will occur. I plan on repairing the connection with 309SS followed by low hydrogen (--18) buildup. The top will be layered with 11018 low hydrogen.

 

[johnnielsen]

John, I rebuilt a 280 lb anvil befor my shoulders failed, and and I had to give it up and sell everything. I used 309 SS and found it was too soft and would move under the hammer after a lengthy period. There is an underlay rod I think 5051? which is used to bed hardfacing rod on roll crushers. It may be better, it is a stainless looking material.
I am a fan of 309 for a pad when joining dis-similar metals like grader blade on mild steel. Ni-Rod is $6 per rod they charge here. I welded a 24" long crack in an engine block with Ni-Rod, it was a costly repair I'll say. I couldn't justify marking it up to the customer.

For the overly ambitious, here is an article on a do it yourself anvil.

I had assumed the 309SS would not creep. That is concerning . I will start the 7018 bead layers on top of the 309SS much sooner.

 

[kstrauss]

I know nothing about anvils but noticed this tonight on FB: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/191912803717770/