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9” South Bend Lathe $1650 Abbotsford BC
- Thread starter whydontu
- Start date
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140mower
Don
It kinda looks the part, but, on the other hand, it doesn't look like it saw much abuse in its life. Usually the compound is half ground away from hitting the chuck......
So, I have been looking to get my first lathe for some time. I have been scouring to gather info, and this seems like a good 'version'. The ways are 'pot marked' from life, but no lengthwise worn 'lip/ridge' that I was told to look for.
- This - It's old, but seems popular enough to get info/ebay parts, and worth investing care and attention because it's 'solid' start?
- Some 'budget' Amazon Vevor/etc. and spend time fixing what's wrong with it
- Keep saving another $1K and get a new King 10x22 when it's on sale like from KMS? (still a budget / hobby / low quality lathe though?)
- This - It's old, but seems popular enough to get info/ebay parts, and worth investing care and attention because it's 'solid' start?
- Some 'budget' Amazon Vevor/etc. and spend time fixing what's wrong with it
- Keep saving another $1K and get a new King 10x22 when it's on sale like from KMS? (still a budget / hobby / low quality lathe though?)
Johnwa
Ultra Member
I have the same lathe and have no complaints. It’s a not heavy duty and sometimes when I advance the crossfeed it may or may not take off that amount. I picked up a 10x22 and had it for a week before realizing compared to the SB it was like a wet noodle. I still have the SB and a Standard Modern 1120. The SM weighs about 3 times as much the SB so is in a different class. Even so after having both for several years I‘m not sure which one I use the most.
140mower
Don
Welcome to the forum.....
Personally, I am a fan of the older iron and have a few South Bends in my collection of toys so my opinion is a little bit biased..... There's a good reason so many of these found their way into school shops. Take a close look at the King you mentioned and how long do you think it would last in the hands of hundreds of kids? One quick and dirty test you can do and the lathe doesn't need to be under power; run the carriage up close to the chuck and lightly snug up the carriage lock to where you just barely feel any drag where you are. Then slowly run the carriage to the tailstock end which sees much less usage, with any kind of luck nothing will bind up indicating little to no wear along the bed. The closer to the chuck things bind, the heavier the wear.
As you mentioned, used parts are readily available as are many aftermarket accessories, whereas, many seem to be having issues with the customer service side of King when things break or wear.
Personally, I am a fan of the older iron and have a few South Bends in my collection of toys so my opinion is a little bit biased..... There's a good reason so many of these found their way into school shops. Take a close look at the King you mentioned and how long do you think it would last in the hands of hundreds of kids? One quick and dirty test you can do and the lathe doesn't need to be under power; run the carriage up close to the chuck and lightly snug up the carriage lock to where you just barely feel any drag where you are. Then slowly run the carriage to the tailstock end which sees much less usage, with any kind of luck nothing will bind up indicating little to no wear along the bed. The closer to the chuck things bind, the heavier the wear.
As you mentioned, used parts are readily available as are many aftermarket accessories, whereas, many seem to be having issues with the customer service side of King when things break or wear.
I wrote a "How to quickly assess a mill" a while ago. I think it's high time we did something similar for lathes.
Even without lips or ridges on the ways, a bad sway back would cool my jets. I like @140mower's suggested test but wouldn't get too fussy about it as some drag is inevitable on a well used lathe. This is where experience is so useful cuz even a lathe with some wear can still do lots of good work. And nothing can replace a good machinist's ability to compensate or workaround known wear. In general, it's hard to beat the weight and rigidity of the older machines even with some wear. Kinda like old men who don't fear death.
Depending on travel arrangements this would be better a buy at $3k if you were ready to buy. That being said you also need the room and power to run it.
canadianhobbymetalworkers.com
All depends on your wants and needs, the 10x22 may do everything you need in the space you have to work with.
Good hunting.
Standard Modern 13x34 $3,000 Medicine Hat
Nice machine at a good price. Looks to be metric. https://standardmodernlathes.com/docs/manuals/standard-modern-1120-1334-manual.pdf https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/471948578885994/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post
canadianhobbymetalworkers.com
All depends on your wants and needs, the 10x22 may do everything you need in the space you have to work with.
Good hunting.
Thanks for the feedback. What I have wanted it for in the past has always been small things that even a cheap 7x14 would have probably been able to deal with. I bought/assembled/fought with a 3d printer almost 10y ago now because I refused to pay $20 for a small plastic gear from the RV parts store. $500+hours of time later, I had my $20 gear, but priceless satisfaction. So that's the same idea that is driving me to get a lathe, and a mill eventually.
I guess sky's the limit once I have one. If you have a hammer everything looks like a nail? I expect in time I would find things it's not suitable for, and then I'll be looking to upgrade, now knowing more.
SB seems like a good choice to start with vs. 'new' but cheap. Bonus that it's not a one off brand no one has heard of and I can't find anything info/support for, as apposed to the lots of interesting $ pits at places like Metal Lathe Accessories
Thanks again! I'm glad I posted.
I guess sky's the limit once I have one. If you have a hammer everything looks like a nail? I expect in time I would find things it's not suitable for, and then I'll be looking to upgrade, now knowing more.
SB seems like a good choice to start with vs. 'new' but cheap. Bonus that it's not a one off brand no one has heard of and I can't find anything info/support for, as apposed to the lots of interesting $ pits at places like Metal Lathe Accessories
Thanks again! I'm glad I posted.
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