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like susquatch said , an indicator is going to get you pretty close. I had a steep learning curve to go through when I had to cut/grind a B&S taper for my grinder. I used two indicators to get the proper rise/run set for the lathe compound, cut the taper and then used the universal grinder to...
Just putting this out there . I am watching a FB group called "machinist" . maybe some of you are as well. Guy near toronto has a swack of 6061 for sale. Henry Glover is the name. I do not know how to send a link so no help there, sorry.
I followed this thread with interest because I knew that you were taking on some tough stuff, and wanted to see what worked. Good job,Sus, !
Just one thing needs to be cleared up. You asked what are leafs? So, for those who might not know : the Leafs are a semi-pro hockey team that plays out of...
So what I ended up doing is I cut off the threaded part of the draw bar and welded a new section of threads off a Gr. 8 bolt. Worked really well and the thread fit is nice in the collets again. Great idea robinhood
Mine is manual, and I always wondered ( being very familiar with air tools)how guys avoided over-torqueing these things. I guess you could regulate the air press. I like having the ability to feel how much torque I am applying.
Great replies. My main concern is the condition of the threads . As they are wearing/distorting I'm afraid they are coming close to the point when they may ruin the threads in the collets. I was wondering what steel would provide best service for the draw bar. Cutting the old threads off and...
i am just about to the point of having to make a new draw bolt for my mill. Standard size 7/16 NF like all the rest . Just wondering what rod would be best to use hot rolled or cold?
It's a great deal. Of course my assessment may be slightly skewed (in favor of buying) but you can spend that much or more on a "d bit grinder" or you can spend the same amount and get yourself a REAL grinder. And it will do more stuff. I'd jump on it!