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Surface Grinding Textbook

TOBARApprentice

Super User
Hey everyone. I have finally completed the new shop and all the machines made it down the staircase and into the basement. Everything is hooked up and operating and I tried out the new (to me) Boyar Schultz 6x12 surface grinder. Can anyone recommend a grinding text that would be indicative of what a high school student might be assigned. My first practice piece worked out great; less than 50 millionths over 3” (.00005). That said, I am pretty sure that achievement was dumb luck and I would like to think that there is a text out there that guys could follow. I have the basics (thanks YouTube) and from the pics you’ll see that I have a bit of wheel balancing ahead of me, but I’m looking for a good shop reference. Too, if anyone is in the Toronto/Hamilton area and is/was a grinder operator/teacher, I would be happy to hire you to run me through a bit of a mentorship program so as to get the most out of this little beauty. Hope everyone is keeping well. Cheers all,

Derek.
 

crittermutt

Active Member
Check on vintage machinery. org
Publication reprints.
Norton A handbook on Tool Room Grinding. There is a lot of reprints on grinding.
 
I'm going to suggest a couple of things.

Clean your surface plate (I'm assuming you haven't, no offence), as this can be the difference in measurement. This can effect your readings.


Second, I would consider the 0.0001 range the accuracy, the 0.00005 is the resolution of the gauge. Remember this is not the accuracy.

As to manuals, I don't remember having any books on it other than hands on.
 

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Looks good, did you get a wheel balancer with your grinder?
I saw a video on building a balancer... I'll see if I can find it again.
(the grind pattern suggest an out of balance wheel or it needs a fresh dress)
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I'm going to suggest a couple of things.

Clean your surface plate (I'm assuming you haven't, no offence), as this can be the difference in measurement. This can effect your readings.


Second, I would consider the 0.0001 range the accuracy, the 0.00005 is the resolution of the gauge. Remember this is not the accuracy.

As to manuals, I don't remember having any books on it other than hands on.

You are right. The stated accuracy of the Starrett is +/- 2 resolutions which is +/- 0.0001 or a range of 0.0002 BUT ONLY after calibrating with a known reference.

@TOBARApprentice, If you do find a book like that, I'd love to read it too.
 

TOBARApprentice

Super User
You are right. The stated accuracy of the Starrett is +/- 2 resolutions which is +/- 0.0001 or a range of 0.0002 BUT ONLY after calibrating with a known reference.

@TOBARApprentice, If you do find a book like that, I'd love to read it too.
I do have a reference Standard that is accurate to .000002. Yes, 2 millionths, not a typo and it has the certification with it. (It was a small fortune) I checked the indicator agains it and everything seemed to check out as published. I’ll keep you apprised if I find a text. Cheers.
 

TOBARApprentice

Super User
I'm going to suggest a couple of things.

Clean your surface plate (I'm assuming you haven't, no offence), as this can be the difference in measurement. This can effect your readings.


Second, I would consider the 0.0001 range the accuracy, the 0.00005 is the resolution of the gauge. Remember this is not the accuracy.

As to manuals, I don't remember having any books on it other than hands on.
My surface plate is clean and I know the flatness (I have an autocollimator and a Rahn Repeat O Meter). The plate is clean and in that area, flat but I appreciate the “double check”. I’m an airline pilot and my world revolves around “double checking”. I will keep the string advised regarding the textbooks. I ordered a couple of books from Ebay earlier today but after my post so we’ll see what transpires. Cheers. Derek
 

TOBARApprentice

Super User
Check on vintage machinery. org
Publication reprints.
Norton A handbook on Tool Room Grinding. There is a lot of reprints on grinding.
I bought a copy of the Norton Handbook on Tool Room Grinding a couple of years ago. It is surprisingly short of technique and “how to” guidance. Thanks for the suggestion though. Cheers. Derek
 

TOBARApprentice

Super User
Looks good, did you get a wheel balancer with your grinder?
I saw a video on building a balancer... I'll see if I can find it again.
(the grind pattern suggest an out of balance wheel or it needs a fresh dress)
Hey David. I don’t have a balancer but one is on the “sooner than later” list of projects to get to. I had freshly dressed the wheel but it has not been balanced. Too, because I had to buy a new motor for it (the old motor was 550v and had bearing issues) I have the grinder on a 4 wheel trolley. Once I finish refitting all the dust deflection material in behind the machine, I’ll use the overhead gantry crane to lift the 1100 lbs and set it sown on its feet. That should improve the rigidity and with some luck solve the surface finish issue; along with a balanced wheel. I’ll get back to the string with my progress but thanks for chiming in. Having ZERO experience I am grasping at straws when it comes to figuring out the “what am I doing wrong” of it. Cheers. Derek
 

Mcgyver

Ultra Member
A grinder adds a lot of capabilities, nice.

you are getting wheel bounce in the finish, could imbalance or not the best wheel choice (what are you grinding?) Did you dress it before grinding? Are you using wheel adapters? If not, you'll likely have to dress every time. I put a VFD on to get the slow ramp start stop (I could use adapters but they are too expensive to have one for every wheel). What wheel are you using? Also consider flood coolant....some grind dry and it does work, but its better with coolant.

One good source of basic info is a HS or College text...there will be a chapter on grinding covering some of the basics.
 
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thestelster

Ultra Member
Premium Member
There's some very good information about grinding in Machine Shop Practice Vol. 2, by Moltrecht. In fact, I consider both volumes essential reading.
 

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Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I do have a reference Standard that is accurate to .000002. Yes, 2 millionths, not a typo and it has the certification with it. (It was a small fortune) I checked the indicator agains it and everything seemed to check out as published. I’ll keep you apprised if I find a text. Cheers.

Wow! I'm impressed! What size is it? I assume it's for a given temperature.

I ran across a standard like that recently. It was made out of unobtainium. The guy selling it knew what it was worth so it didn't want to follow me home.
I do have a few similar standard references though - just not dimensional. Mine are calibration weights.

I am hoping to get a small surface grinder in the next month or so. Like you, I have no idea how to use it properly. I'm handicapped in that regard because I don't like YouTube (or tv or the movies or theater or sports) at all. So a book would be a godsend to me.

There is a saying I love. "The more you know the more you know you don't know." Describes me pretty well. I've reached the idiot stage. WAAAY too stupid to let a surface grinder pass.

Lots of members on here are pilots. I gave up when I learned I had to do spin training. I can't handle a ferris wheel so that dream died young. I do like Flight Simulator. Been trying to get a Concorde into the air. Keep running out of tar - even at Pearson. Not ready to try less load just yet.
 

TOBARApprentice

Super User
Wow! I'm impressed! What size is it? I assume it's for a given temperature.

I ran across a standard like that recently. It was made out of unobtainium. The guy selling it knew what it was worth so it didn't want to follow me home.
I do have a few similar standard references though - just not dimensional. Mine are calibration weights.

I am hoping to get a small surface grinder in the next month or so. Like you, I have no idea how to use it properly. I'm handicapped in that regard because I don't like YouTube (or tv or the movies or theater or sports) at all. So a book would be a godsend to me.

There is a saying I love. "The more you know the more you know you don't know." Describes me pretty well. I've reached the idiot stage. WAAAY too stupid to let a surface grinder pass.

Lots of members on here are pilots. I gave up when I learned I had to do spin training. I can't handle a ferris wheel so that dream died young. I do like Flight Simulator. Been trying to get a Concorde into the air. Keep running out of tar - even at Pearson. Not ready to try less load just yet.
The standard is a Starrett Webber and is 26”. According to the certification and the Starrett paperwork it is dimensionally stable as it pertains to temp and the blocks are in some way insulated. I’ll post the spec sheet/literature later today. Try a bit more flap for your takeoff in the Concorde, use the afterburner and give yourself 10-15 kts of headwind. Depart 33R at CYYZ. If that doesn’t work you are doing something wrong (taking off over gross wt, lol).
 

TOBARApprentice

Super User
A grinder adds a lot of capabilities, nice.

you are getting wheel bounce in the finish, could imbalance or not the best wheel choice (what are you grinding?) Did you dress it before grinding? Are you using wheel adapters? If not, you'll likely have to dress every time. I put a VFD on to get the slow ramp start stop (I could use adapters but they are too expensive to have one for every wheel). What wheel are you using? Also consider flood coolant....some grind dry and it does work, but its better with coolant.

One good source of basic info is a HS or College text...there will be a chapter on grinding covering some of the basics.
Hey! Pictured was my first and only attempt at this point. It was cast iron. I didn’t check the hardness but I will in future for reference. I did dress the wheel (not too fast and not too slow). I only have 2 hubs/adapters but have a bid in for three more on eBay so my common wheels will stay mounted. The wheel is a 46J (pretty sure) hardness Norton. I did use Kool Mist coolant but bought a propper flood coolant pump/setup….. to be installed next week. I had to buy a new motor for it as the bearings in the original were shot and it was 3 phase 550v. Along withbthe motor I picked up a VFD so as to keep the 3 phase but now 220v “smooth” electricity. The VFD is awesome and the slow start is lovely. Thanks for the questions and comments…. Hopefully the surface gets corrected with a good balancing setup. Cheers. Derek
 

Mcgyver

Ultra Member
Sounds like you've got things lined up well. The only note is that motors for grinders are usually balanced to a high standard so it can be detrimental getting rid of the OEM motor. I did that eons ago when I got my grinder and ended up putting the original motor back on with a noticeable improvement in finish.

Commercial machinists (who are on larger machines) will tell you balancing doesn't matter and they never bother, well, they're right and wrong. It definitely affects things (as in any force does, even a fly landing on it) but their machines are hefty enough it doesn't affect them enough. But on a small light little grinder, you chase away the tiniest source of vibration to the get the best finish.
 
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