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First Major DRO Job

Susquatch

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As many will know, I finally finished installing the last part of my DRO - the quill axis. It is set to work together with my knee axis for a combined Z + Quill Readout.

Ever since its completion, I've been futzing around making slow progress on a job that I saved specifically for the DRO. In fact, you could almost say the job was part of the reason I got the DRO in the first place.

A long time ago, I put together a triple front spider for concentricity work. The spider allows you to align a work object totally concentric to the axis of the spindle. But is a beast to use because it had to be held and aligned in a four jaw before a part could be installed and aligned in the spider. A few years after making the spider assembly, I bought a D1-5 back plate for it so it could be directly used without the 4 jaw. The problem was the screws that had to be installed in the hub recess of the backplate without affecting the spindle attachment. To be honest, I had very low confidence in my ability to layout a perfect 6 element bolt circle using the tools I had at the time.

On the other hand, it was a perfect job for the circular array (bolt circle) function of a DRO.

Only 4 of 6 screws installed so far. But good enough for a photo. Two more to go.

20220915_192449.jpg

Very happy so far. Here is a shot of the DRO in action.

20220915_192859.jpg

Some challenges were encountered.

The stem of my 1/4-28 taps measures 0.254 - too big to enter a 1/4" hole. But I needed a long screw hole to fit through the cast-iron backplate and have enough thread to maintain a good solid hold on the spider. I suppose with the DRO I could have machined the two parts separately, but again I had no confidence. In time I may charge ahead - but for now it's crawl before you walk before you run.

A bigger socket head cap screw would have been better but that might weaken the backplate casting too much. A 1/4 inch screw is actually plenty strong enough though, so a compromise was made. I drilled out an extra 1/4 inch of depth to accomodate the tap shaft with a 17/64ths drill. This was plenty but the 17/64 drill bit just wouldn't fit a 1/4" ER32 collet. I had to use a 5/16 collet. That worked but it felt just awful tightening that collet that much. I'm going to see if I can find a 9/32 collet. 32nds ER32 collets are not common and are not listed but who knows - they may exist somewhere. I do enough 1/4" tapping that it's worth trying to find the collet. If not, I may grind a 1/4" Collet out a bit instead.

Most of the drilling and tapping required depth control. The 4th axis of the DRO came in really handy for that. The biggest problem was anticipated - calibrating the Z Axis zero. Basically, I touched off the face of the D1-5 spindle nose recess and set zero there for each increasingly larger tool used. I maintained a chart of depths for each phase - tap drill, screw shaft clearance, tap shaft clearance, and finally socket head countersink depth. All tapping was done manually.

When I'm all done, I'll clean and reinstall the cam-lock studs and try it out.

All-in-all, I'm very happy. So far - so good...... Nice DRO.
 
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phaxtris

(Ryan)
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oh i like your dro, does it change the number of holes and the angle of the holes, etc depending on what you enter ? like if you put in 4 hole pattern from 0-180 will the screen display 4 holes on an arc ?

i cant really picture what exactly your doing with the spider, but it sounds intricate, look forward to seeing a completed picture
 

Susquatch

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oh i like your dro, does it change the number of holes and the angle of the holes, etc depending on what you enter ? like if you put in 4 hole pattern from 0-180 will the screen display 4 holes on an arc ?

Yes. You can create whatever array you want. It has four modes. Angle and diameter, diameter and number of holes, starting hole and angle increment, and..... I forget.... LOL! For this job, I used diameter and number of holes.

It will also do square arrays, cones, and vectors.


i cant really picture what exactly your doing with the spider, but it sounds intricate, look forward to seeing a completed picture

I'll post a better picture when the job is done and it's mounted on my lathe.
 

phaxtris

(Ryan)
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Yes. You can create whatever array you want. It has four modes. Angle and diameter, diameter and number of holes, starting hole and angle increment, and..... I forget.... LOL! For this job, I used diameter and number of holes.

It will also do square arrays, cones, and vectors.




I'll post a better picture when the job is done and it's mounted on my lathe.

thats awesome, my disco dro allows you to do that stuff, but you have no way of knowing if you put it all in correctly without actually running to each dimension on the table....i like yours way better, tradezies ? lol

look forward to a picture of this whole contraption your building mounted
 

RobinHood

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Nice work!

I would just get a 7mm ER32 collet. Very common. 17/64th —> ~ 6.75 mm; it will never fit a 1/4” collet as that would have to “stretch” - which ERs don’t.

Just get a whole metric set and be done with it… (it’s so easy to spend someone else’s $$s, lol).
 

Susquatch

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Nice work!

I would just get a 7mm ER32 collet. Very common. 17/64th —> ~ 6.75 mm; it will never fit a 1/4” collet as that would have to “stretch” - which ERs don’t.

Just get a whole metric set and be done with it… (it’s so easy to spend someone else’s $$s, lol).

I'm gunna gave to look at this a bit closer @RobinHood. I had thought of doing exactly that. But the charts I looked at list the same part numbers for both metric and Imperial - just different size overlaps. So something weird is going on there. Either that or I'm gunna have to stop shopping at the affordable places! LOL!
 

Susquatch

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......damn, thought I'd started drinking again for a minute there....:p
It's somewhat interesting how that all happened. In fact, I'm not even sure how it happened....

I posted the original, then went off looking at other threads, then came back and noticed that the photos were links not pictures so I edited the post to delete the links and properly post the photos. Then replied to a few new comments. Then you and @YYCHM commented about the duplicated thread.

When I read your notes, I didn't see the duplicate so I assumed that editing the photos caused a browser refresh problem on your end and replied to you both to that effect.

After doing that, I reviewed the Latest Posts section and saw the duplicate threads! Then I had to figure out which one to delete!

After that, I needed the drink you thought you had!

I'm thinking that editing my original post like that without refreshing caused the system to make a second copy. Might never know.

Anyway, it's fixed now.
 
It's somewhat interesting how that all happened. In fact, I'm not even sure how it happened....

I posted the original, then went off looking at other threads, then came back and noticed that the photos were links not pictures so I edited the post to delete the links and properly post the photos. Then replied to a few new comments. Then you and @YYCHM commented about the duplicated thread.

When I read your notes, I didn't see the duplicate so I assumed that editing the photos caused a browser refresh problem on your end and replied to you both to that effect.

After doing that, I reviewed the Latest Posts section and saw the duplicate threads! Then I had to figure out which one to delete!

After that, I needed the drink you thought you had!

I'm thinking that editing my original post like that without refreshing caused the system to make a second copy. Might never know.

Anyway, it's fixed now.
.....and my sobriety lives another day...:p
 

Susquatch

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Love that LCD display!

The photo does not do it justice. It looks 10x better in real life. My camera does not pick up the contrast and does pick up some kind of raster that my eye cannot see. Raster may not be the right term but it's what comes to mind. I'll have to see if I can find a way to take a better photo.
 

Susquatch

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Love that LCD display!

I fiddled with my phone camera settings and was able to take a better photo. Still not nearly as nice as what my eyes see, but better than other photos I have taken.

20220916_092002.jpg

And then I discovered this nice surprise..... Since the RPM doesn't work yet anyway, I turned it off. Guess what happened? The axis info got bigger to take up more of the screen!

20220916_094641.jpg
 

Hacker

Super User
I have the same DRO and I agree the screen is great. Also the modes of the hole pattern allows you options on how you come at a project.
 

Susquatch

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Here is another photo showing the bolt circle function in action. For this particular circular array method, you:

1. Find center (as you would in any other process requiring a center). Lots of ways to do this with a DRO.
2. Zero the DRO X & Y Axis
3. Go to circular array via the function set
4. Select the desired mode
5. Set diameter
6. Set number of holes
7. Press Start

The display will look like this:

20220916_101049.jpg

Note that I've already moved the X axis half way there. As you crank, the red spot moves. In this screen, I just need to move the x over 0.6056 to the right and the Y back a tenth. (a tenth eh .... Ya right!) Funny as that may be, this thing will display hundredths!

8. Just crank the x & y till they both read zero
9. Do your machining Op.
10. Press right or left arrow
11. DRO will go to the next or the previous hole.
12. Repeat

The DRO will retain these settings so you can crank off to the side to change tools, and then return to the work in progress.
 
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phaxtris

(Ryan)
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Oh man I need an upgrade, does it plug into the regular glass scales with the old style serial plug (db9 or something, the one that use to be a mouse)
 

Susquatch

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Oh man I need an upgrade, does it plug into the regular glass scales with the old style serial plug (db9 or something, the one that use to be a mouse)

I don't know. I have wondered the same thing. It would be nice to know how that might work.

This one is setup with 1 micron magnetic scales. I know for sure that you can select lower or higher resolutions. But I don't know if the magnetic/glass signals are compatible. It would be good to know that detail.

Yes, the connections are DB-9. Even the RPM is DB-9.

yes, I can't imagine going back to no DRO. No layout, no spot drilling, just drill or mill.

No spot drilling??? Don't you worry about tip wander?
 
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