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Do you measure using Imperial or Metric
- Thread starter Alexander
- Start date
Metric. Always metric. You get good at converting your frequently used back and forth, then you use a calculator for some stuff. In my experience metric makes the most sense (stupid fractions and base 12) for doing the math. I machine in some sort of hybrid version of both though.. all my indicators are in imperial so I tend to do my movements converted into imperial, but its pretty well always a metric number I am trying to get to.
Well I am a little surprised we have confirmed Meteric fans here. I am working on a few designs and I will share once my project gets under way. I am going to make a Meteric drawing for sure now in case someone else wants to build one too. My preference is firmly Imperial. Only because that's what industry uses locally. @jbrownslms what do you prefer? I'm putting together a you mill it yourself oscillating steam engine kit so I'm interested in what system you think the units should be in.
jbrownslms
Member
Hi alex,
Everything I own is imperial except for a tape measure lol! I learned in imperial when I was doing my automotive engineer course (mechanic) and when I build engines its all measured in imperial so thats what I prefer, but everything we do at work is metric. I can convert pretty easily. As for the kit I think imperial would be the way to go
Everything I own is imperial except for a tape measure lol! I learned in imperial when I was doing my automotive engineer course (mechanic) and when I build engines its all measured in imperial so thats what I prefer, but everything we do at work is metric. I can convert pretty easily. As for the kit I think imperial would be the way to go
While I agree that you have a much higher probability of introducing errors by converting back and forth, as long as you are paying attention and double checking you should be alright. Once I have a DRO on my mill and lathe it will make things a lot easier for conversions, its a pain in the ass that we can't really get materials in metric though. At the same time, most things except for bearings, shafting, keystock, etc. really are not a precision piece (structural steel, plate steel, etc.) so you end up having to machine them down either way if you really need to have them precise.. unless you buy cold roll or ground materials.
If I ever build anything that is headed into space, regardless of destination, I promise I will only use one system.
If I ever build anything that is headed into space, regardless of destination, I promise I will only use one system.
This is a popular topic on many forums. I used to think if armed with a calculator and/or DRO then who cares, a person should be able to work either or. But after I got metric plans for this model engine, it soon became apparent that tooling (cost) can be a big consideration too. Simple example, he chose 6mm drill rod for a part (=0.236") & required 6mm reamer for a certain fit. I found both metric items harder to source, less selection & more expensive than nominal 1/4" (0.250") which probably would work as well, but now you are into design rejigging. Its ok when its a standalone entity like turn shaft OD on imp lathe to fit an metric bearing ID. But when this part has to then fit that part especially with fit tolerances, units conversions can get more involved. He also used a 10mm ball end mill, some metric slitting saws, M-type taps & dies etc. Turns out I had very little of this. So I guess my answer is it all depends on what the target builder is likely to have in his shop & what all is involved, cause 2 sets of tooling can $$ add up.
But as a 'system', who cant like multiplying & dividing by 10, the number of fingers on our hands
But as a 'system', who cant like multiplying & dividing by 10, the number of fingers on our hands
Thanks I agree with @PeterT I completed the design stage and started machining 10 little stationary steam engine's last night. Funny you should mention the 6mm rod. I am using 1/4" rod for the crank shaft. I was able to buy 1/4" precision ground 4140 at metal supermarkets. They have 12' lenghts they are willing to cut a piece off for .71 cents per inch and Busy Bee has the Imperial reamers in stock for cheap. I couldn't agree more with the decreased availability and increased cost of Meteric tooling.
Rick Runciman
Member
Hi guys, I'm a semi retired journeyman. I just found and joined your group because I have a small shop in my garage and hobby parts machining is my passion, it's an art. My Mitutoyo vernier switches back and forth, so it doesn't matter to me. Metric tapping is really cool. If it's a 10mm x 1.5mm pitch,,, no need for a chart, the tap drill is always the nominal size, minus the thread pitch. Metric conversions are easy,, multiply, or divide by 25.4. So it's not to hard to use both systems,,, pretty much the same,,, as long as the chips are flying. Looking forward to meeting you younger people interested in machining.
Definitely prefer metric, and school was thoroughly metric, but since we're so close to TWO hardcore imperial holdouts (the bloody english and those damn americans [/silly accent]), we tend to get a weird mashup of both. Imperial for personal measurements (height and weight), metric for distance and commerce (4 km to nearest grocery store, 150grams of lunch meat)... back to Imperial for construction measurements (ever hear of a 2x4 referred to as a 48mm x 98mm? Must not live in Norway then ) as well as beer... and again metric for other volumes, like milk or fuel.
Machining equipment readily available here seems to be largely imperial, with decimal gradations instead of fractional, so I'll be using what there is... but if I'm making anything from scratch, I definitely agree with Rick, metric tapping is nice. While the screws might be a bit harder to come by, you won't have to fight anyone for them
) as well as beer... and again metric for other volumes, like milk or fuel.Machining equipment readily available here seems to be largely imperial, with decimal gradations instead of fractional, so I'll be using what there is... but if I'm making anything from scratch, I definitely agree with Rick, metric tapping is nice. While the screws might be a bit harder to come by, you won't have to fight anyone for them
Hey, How is this coming along? Did I mention that you should put my name on the list for this?
--> Once complete we could add a "Project / How to" section of the forum for this type of contribution!
Let me know!
Hey I have completed the turning on all 10 cylinders and fitted 10 pistons into there bores. I'll hopefully have this all finished and packeged by the start of September. That reminds me are we doing a demo booth at the mini maker fair to promote the form? Entry cut off is July 31. I am volunteering my time and equipment if I can get help. Who is interested?
Awesome, that's exciting. Keep us posted! I loved watching the vid of your machine doing it's thing too!
Didn't realize the cutoff was so soon. I don't know too much about the fair but would be more than happy to come help and what not, but we definitely haven't reached out yet.
Have you gone through the application already, or shall I do one for the group? Count me in with ya Alex.
JW
I've applied now. Also opened a dedicated thread for this:
http://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/maker-faire-2015-meetup.73/
Ok WHERE can I find an imperial metal ruler with decimal 10 gradations not bloody fractions. I've googled all over and the only things I can find is in fractions. Hundreds of them. I'm going to go a drafting store but I'm expecting plastic if I can find anything. A true machinists ruler is it so much to ask for? Apparently....