Search results

I’ve had a pair of PA ProPoint (I think they are now called Titans?) calipers for 7 years. They work as well today as they did when new (smooth & accurate). The biggest difference between them and my Fowlers (the best quality ones I have) is the battery life. A battery in the Fowler calipers...

Good that only replaceable materials were hurt… Classic hot rolled steel pull-out. Had that happen too many times in the past. That scale is a b**ch to hang onto. Also, the dimensional accuracy is not as good as one would think. I now try not to forget to use either a piece of paper / emery...

I have LH drills. Didn’t think they were worth the $s…I was wrong. They are now the go-to for getting out busted-off threaded RH fasteners. It makes such a big difference in that application.

I believe it is mostly the geometry that is different. If you look at a designated Aluminum (or other non-ferrous material) insert, one will note the high rake angle and the relatively small top radius (ie, the insert feels sharp). My dedicated steel inserts seem much more blunt with almost no...

Tapered roller bearings are either immersed in an oil bath, pressure oil lubricated or greased. In all cases there needs to be a separate seal on the outside to keep debris out.

That depends on the lathe: some have special adjusting bolts at the rear of the headstock; some are scraped in.

Hi Tom, It might be best to give us the bearing numbers - ie: what is in the lathe right now, what are you planning on replacing them with. Links to the bearings you are considering also help. We can then provide you with more qualified answers to your questions.

Well, now you get to fix the arbour. Cut off the stud, drill and tap for a 3/8-24 stud (or whatever thread you prefer). Hold it in the RT‘s female socket on the mill.

Good one Tom!

An out of the box idea: maybe the 3/8-24 reference is the internal thread on the opposite side -to be used for a drawbar?